Lawns take a beating during summer. The longer days, the heat, and the increased use and activity all make it difficult for grass to thrive. Ironically on the flip side, shade can be even more damaging as a lack of sunlight prevents growth and increases moisture which promotes moss. Trees and bushes that create the shade have large root systems that also steal water so there is less for the grass roots.
No matter the injuries, fall is the perfect time to mend, rejuvenate and prepare your lawn to be its best next spring.
Autumn Offers Optimal Growing Conditions
Many of today’s grass 
varieties simply grow better in cooler weather – daytime temperatures between 60 and 90 degrees is ideal. Watering is easier in lower temperatures. And, herbicides contained in spring fertilizers can harm or inhibit seed germination. By seeding your lawn in the fall, you give it plenty of time to get established and strong so that come the spring growing season, it will be ready to flourish with care.
There are five elements to consider in this process: top dressing, aerating, overseeding, fertilizing and watering.
Top Dressing
We all know how important good soil is to growing anything, so giving attention and energy to this part of the repair process reaps great reward:
Mix up some healthy soil (top soil with the right amendments for your type of soil). Depending on the size of your space, you can use a bucket or wheelbarrow. You’ll want enough to add ¼” to ½” soil to your area so consult with your nursery to calculate how much topsoil to purchase.
If it is a smaller area, pile the loose healthy soil on your damaged area then rake it out to spread it evenly. On larger areas, you’ll want to use a spreader.
Aerating
Compacted soil or soil with lots of clay benefits from aerating, or “punching holes” in your lawn. This process makes it possible for water, oxygen, fertilizers and other nutrients to better penetrate the soil and reach grass roots.
To determine if your lawn needs aerating, dig a square-foot section of grass six inches deep. If the grass roots are 2” deep or less, your lawn needs aerating. (Don’t aerate newly seeded or sodded lawns before they are a year old.)
Make sure your lawn is well-watered before aerating. You can hire this process done, or rent an aerator from your local garden center.
Overseeding
I always thought “overseeding” mean putting more seed than necessary on the lawn to increase your chances of growth…but alas, I humbly discovered it actually means “sowing seed over existing grass!” That also means that before you overseed, you must determine that the existing grass you have is worth keeping. Experts recommend a 50% benchmark: if that much of your existing grass is healthy and plentiful, then overseed. If you have less than 50% of your lawn, then you need to scrap it and start over.
The other thing I learned is that lawns get “old.” If you don’t continually bring in new grass to your yard, your grass will get old and have a harder time thriving. This is another reason to overseed.
Selecting Grass Seed – There are so many new varieties with characteristics such as drought resistance or insect resistance. Also consider how you will use your lawn as there is a spectrum ranging from low maintenance (high use) to intense maintenance (aesthetic use).
Choosing the Right Amount – A recommended rate for this process is 4-5 pounds of new grass seed for every 1,000 feed of ground you want to cover. It is best to use a spreader (definitely worth the investment) and don’t forget to put it on the “overseed” setting.
Fertilizing
Until the root system develops, the little seedlings can use all the help they can get. By applying a starter fertilizer, you will make nutrients easily available to the little guys. The main ingredient, phosphorus, will promote root growth.
Watering!
Last but not least, I cannot 
over stress the importance of proper watering. You can go to all the work and expense of preparing the soil, aerating, overseeding and fertilizing, and then blow it by not watering enough. Here’s why it is so essential: the water must get down to the soil beneath the seeds in order to draw the roots down to the water. If water remains on the surface, the roots don’t grow deep enough to create strong grass.
So here’s the challenge: you need to apply a lot of water to soak the soil yet do it gently enough so that it doesn’t cause the seeds to float away. Find a high-volume, gentle sprayer or sprinkler and water two times a day until your new growth is well established.
Your lawn has been good to you all summer by providing a place for fun and enjoyment, now it is time for you to be good to your lawn. Repair and rejuvenate your grass this fall and reap the benefits next spring!
Record temperatures have kept homeowners indoors this summer sweating out the sweltering heat. From the usual hotspots of Arizona all the way up to Minnesota and on toward the Great Lakes, “Heat” has been a four-letter word. And in most of the country, that heat has also been accompanied by a startling lack of moisture. In other words, in 2012 most of us are facing a drought.
Simple garden mulch can be a miracle worker in the hottest climates. It contains nutrients that your plants can use, and it retains water like a champion. Mulch is a low-tech, natural resource that blows away all the timers, sprinklers and irrigation systems you’ll find on the market. It is nature’s drip feeder of moisture to right where your plants need it. Mulch also helps you maximize the water-absorbing potential of your yard. In addition, certain mulch can also repel bugs and have a positive impact on your soil’s pH balance. But don’t overdo it! The dreaded “mulch volcano” around plants can actually suffocate roots. Just spread a light amount of mulch near the plant and extend the pile out several feet to either side. This will position the mulch over the roots without harming the plant – and it will block the sun, to reduce weeds and lower ground temperatures to lock in moisture.
can lead to fungus growth. Flooded soil kills the fine hairs of the root system and can compact the soil making it hard for the roots to absorb future waterings. What makes this even more difficult is that it’s easy to interpret the signs of overwatering as plant dehydration. Brown spots on leaves and wilting plants don’t always mean it’s time for more water. Less frequent, intense soakings reach deep into the soil, beyond the reach of evaporation but not beyond the reach of your plant’s roots. After the drought passes – and it will! – treat your lawn to an overwatering. Once or twice a year, water twice as long as normal to help leach the salts out of your plants’ roots.
Instead, put away the mower and hedge trimmers, pour yourself a nice glass of lemonade and take a load off until the temperatures cool and the rains fall once again!
It’s here. Ready or not, summer can be the best friend – or worst enemy – to your lawn, gardens, shrubs and trees. But we’re here to make sure you’re well prepared for summer success.
Public Enemy #1 is lack of moisture. Watering needs to be top of mind with you from now until fall for your lawn and gardens to flourish. Nearly all garden and landscape plants need a constant source of moisture to produce abundant blooms.
To keep a perennial garden full of color in the hot months, plant some annuals among early summer bloomers like irises, peonies and campanulas. Once the perennials fade, these annuals will keep adding color to an otherwise past-its-prime bed. Some nice companion flowers for perennials are nicotianas, salvias, verbenas, zinnias and heliotrope among others.
early crops of spring-planted veggies. And once you harvest, don’t leave empty spaces after pulling plants. Replace bare spots right away with summer crops like corn, carrots, beans, peppers, beets, cucumbers and potatoes. For a Halloween treat, now is the perfect time to plant your own pumpkins.
Consider room in your garden for delicious and nutrient-packed fruits. Strawberries, raspberries and blueberries are packed with antioxidants that help our bodies fight disease and stress.
sharp to make your job easier and reduce disease from shredded grass tips.
Speaking of bugs, now is the time to scout out pest problems and treat immediately. Some things to look for this time of year are bagworms on evergreens and shade trees, lacebugs on azaleas and pieris, spider mites on spruce, hemlocks and juniper. Avoid spraying when the temperature rises above 85 degrees.
