Tag Archives: gardening tips

Winter Warm-ups: Exercises for Gardening

garden exercisesAs we all know, gardening can be physically demanding. Our bodies can get out of shape even after just a few months off during the winter months. Whether you are still needing to get in shape, are working on that New Year’s resolution to get fit, or suffer aches and pains of arthritis or back troubles, getting physically warmed up now for the rigors of spring planting later may help minimize muscle aches and pains when the work begins again. And that “later” is really just around the corner!

Stretching

Making stretching a regular practice is advantageous to gardeners all season long.

Stretching lengthens a muscle and decreases tightness that repetitive motion and exertion create. It’s best to stretch when your muscles are warmed up because they are more elastic and pliable (after a hot shower or physical activity). It’s a good habit to start now, and continue every time you garden.

stretching-bob-anderson

Focus on the parts most affected by the movement demands of our gardener’s bodies. The bending and stooping we do affects our lower back and hips. Our neck, shoulders, upper back and knees can also take a beating.

Yoga is a great way to stretch. Poses like the Child’s Pose, Cat/Cow, Downward Dog and Cobbler’s Pose would work those areas. I’ve seen several good books, videos and websites offering yoga practices especially for gardeners. You can easily find these on the internet, or consult a physical therapist or athletic trainer at your local fitness center.

One resource by Bob Anderson, Stretching, offers a section on before-and-after gardening stretches. (ShelterPub.com)

Strength Building

gardening exercises

Everyone says gardening is good exercise, and it’s true, but you don’t want to start out picking up a 50 pound bag of rocks or even a heavy bag of soil or compost without some strength training. That’s a recipe for back strain, and could affect your ability to garden the rest of the season.

Be smart and prepare your body for the bending and lifting required for prepping a garden. You can do this by mimicking gardening movements with appropriate weights. My friend, blogger Erica Strauss, created seven exercises and an explanation of exactly how they prepare your body for specific gardening activities. You could pick and choose which ones you want to perform based on what you will be doing this spring. The exercises are simple and use only dumbbells. They can be done at home, in the garden or at the gym. It is definitely worth checking out Erica’s exercises at http://www.nwedible.com/2012/03/the-7-best-strength-exercises-for-gardeners.html.

One yoga position also offers great core strengthening aid, as well as providing overall upper body strength – the Plank. Anywhere from 15 seconds to 5 minutes of this position each day provides great benefits. It is one of the fundamental yoga poses. Consult a professional for instructions on how to do it correctly.

Beneficial Tools

GW_Claw_full

There is another way to help minimize aches and pains, too: using the right tools. Many of our Garden Weasel products are designed to help save work on your back. The long handles, ease of use and quality of our devices absorb a portion of your workload. Consider adding one of these helpful gizmos to your garden toolshed this spring! You can find more details about them on our website: www.GardenWeasel.com.

Tools List:

Cultivating Tool
The Garden Weasel
Cultivating, Loosening, Aerating and Weeding (CLAW) Tools: Weasel Garden Claw, Weasel Claw Pro, Garden Claw Red Super, Mini Claw Tall


If You Haven’t Pruned Your Trees and Shrubs, Now Is The Time.

When you are up to your elbows in spring gardening and lawn maintenance, don’t forget that now is also a great time to do a little pruning of your trees and shrubs.

Pruning means removing plant parts – typically fronds, shoots, branches and flowers – to boost health, control growth and improve blooming. You can also prune the roots if they are close to the trunk. It’s a routine part of maintenance, and it shouldn’t be put off until the trees are overgrown.

Overgrown plants are tall and leggy with very little foliage near the ground, making it harder to prune to a desired size without severely damaging the plants. That’s why if you’re at that point, prune overgrown trees and shrubs in stages over several years.

Over time, trees and shrubs can outgrow the space allotted to them. If so, pruning is critical to keep plants in bounds. It’s easy to maintain a uniform size and shape of trees and hedges if you stick to a regular schedule.

Most trees and shrubs benefit from being pruned back each year. Pruning helps your trees keep their shape, gets rid of dead and diseased limbs – and helps new growth to flourish.

The more flowers or fruit are on a plant, the smaller each fruit or flower is. Pruning reduces the amount of wood and diverts energy to produce larger, healthier (but fewer) flowers or fruit. Most flowering shrubs bloom either on one-year-old growth – or on new growth. Pruning helps you increase wood production that will bear flowers or fruit.

To maintain plant health, get rid of any dead, dying or diseased wood you see. Any dying branch is the perfect entry point for insects and disease to quickly spread. When trimming dead branches, use a sharp sterile blade and remove the dying growth all the way back to the healthy wood.

Here are a few quick reminders on pruning shrubs.

There are two main techniques, and it’s key you do them both in moderation: Thinning and “heading back.” Thinning means removing the entire branch back to the main branch or stem. Heading back just means shortening the branch’s length.

Problems can arise if you do either of these techniques to the exclusion of the other. Do a combination of each to keep your plants at the size, shape and density you want.

Thinning regularly helps you prevent disease and maintain good form in all your plants. Even evergreen shrubs benefit from an occasional thinning of their foliage. Thinning allows light and air to penetrate throughout the plant, so you get even better overall growth.

Here are some tips for successfully pruning trees.

  1. Twigs and small branches. Always cut back to a vigorous bud or an intersecting branch. When cutting back to a bud, choose a bud that points in the direction you want for the new growth. Be sure not to cut too close to the bud.
  2. Thick, heavy branches. Remove large branches so they are flush with the “collar” at the branch’s base. The collar is a larger area of tissue at the base and it contains a protective zone to prevent decay. If you accidentally cut too low to the branch base, the protection is removed and you are at risk of a serious trunk wound.
  3. Forget the old “paint” technique when you have cut the branch flush to the trunk. For years, folks have done the flush-cut-and-paint routine. Simply put, don’t. Flush-cutting increases the risk of tree injury – and the paint can trap moisture and add to disease problems.

When it comes to pruning, a simple rule of thumb is this. Don’t overdo it but do it regularly. Generally once a year will keep you in good shape. And use the sharpest shears possible, so you get clean cuts with no frayed edges.

Happy pruning!

 


Gardening for All Five Senses

We all garden for different reasons. Why not try this unique approach and incorporate a little something for each of your five senses? And then be sure to include a beautiful bench or a pea pebble path, and, make time to take a walk or sit and enjoy your garden with your eyes, ears, fingers, mouth and nose!

Sight

Gardens can be beautiful visual art and using some ideas from the art world can really enhance yours, especially if selecting color overwhelms you. One great tool is the color wheel. You can purchase an inexpensive one at any craft store. To create a bold, dramatic effect, try planting in complementary colors. These are any colors opposite each other on the wheel. Take the color wheel with you when you go to choose your plants. For example, when choosing annuals, select a flower color you like then locate the opposite color on the wheel and find other florae in that hue. Or try an analogous color scheme (a cluster of 3 adjacent colors on the wheel).

Sound

With the hustle and bustle of our lives, silence can be a beautiful sound. Simply sitting in the quiet of a garden can be music to our ears. If you want to add the twinkling tones of nature’s songbirds, attract birds by providing consistent food, water and cover. Research types of birds to determine what they eat and what types of nesting they require and provide those. A simple, shallow (no more than 3” deep) bird bath is a great way to furnish water.

Touch

As you plan for the sense of touch, think “petting zoo for plants” and ask yourself if the texture of the plant is interesting and durable. One of the most delightful plants to feel is Lambs’ Ear. Its large leaves are densely covered in silky, white hairs and feel like velvet. Snapdragons are another playful flower that is amazing to touch. They come in a variety of vivid, bright colors and their blooms open and close when pinched at the “jaw.” Kids love both of these plants.

Taste

It brings me joy to experience the freedom of plucking something off a plant and eating it in nature. Berries are a sweet favorite, of course, though they require a lot of sun and can take years to establish. In the meantime, there are so many types of mint that are fun to eat. Planting several different kinds and then taste-testing them is a treat. Many types of flowers are also edible, such as marigold, nasturtiums, pansies and peonies. Be careful, though, because not every flower is edible. Never use pesticides or chemicals on them, don’t eat them from the roadside, and be sure you correctly identify the flower before you eat it.

Smell

There’s nothing like the surprise of encountering a beautiful scent as you walk through a garden. It’s fun to try to identify where it’s coming from. Honeysuckle and lilac are two of nature’s most permeating scents. Honeysuckle has wonderful sweet smell, and it flourishes in sunny areas with a rock wall, trellis or fence to grow on. It also attracts hummingbirds, butterflies and bees so vital to all botanical life. Lilac is also a pleasant smell, and comes in many varieties. The Korean Dwarf Lilac is an easy-to-maintain tree-like bush in the shape of a popsicle. The skinny trunk is topped by a puff of greenery with clusters of powerfully-smelling lavender blooms in the spring. To maintain the circular shape and thickness, be sure to trim monthly.

No matter what type of garden you grow, consider your senses as you plan and plant! It just makes sense!


It’s Time for Spring Perennials!

Now that spring has sprung, it’s the ideal time to plant your perennials.

You can take advantage of everything that spring flowers love most: soil that is thawed out and warming up, longer daylight hours, moist ground, regular rains and plenty of sunshine. Down below the ground, root systems flourish, soaking up water and nutrients to fuel growth. And up above, foliage, stems and flowers explode into color.

The most common way to plant perennials is buying small plants in containers. These plants are already growing and give you flexibility on selection and planting all season long.

Or you can buy bare root or packaged plants sold dormant by mail order or at garden centers. These are for spring planting only. If you get these at a time you can’t plant right away, keep the plants cool and the roots moist. You can store them for several weeks this way, thus assuring their survival prior to planting.

Successful perennial gardens start with thorough and thoughtful bed preparation. Some of the key points include: eliminating perennial weeds before turning the soil; insuring a well-drained soil that can retain enough moisture for good plant growth; providing for sufficient organic matter in the soil; and adding fertilizer as needed.

Let new plants adjust to life outdoors for a few days or a week by storing them in a sheltered spot. Leave the plants outside just a few hours, and slowly increase the time until they’re outdoors full time. If there’s a threat of a late frost, bring perennials indoors or cover them. You can cover them with single layer of newspaper to reduce the light intensity and wind exposure.

Choose a cool, cloudy, or damp day to plant, or plant in late afternoon. Plant in good soil, create a basin of soil or mulch around each plant, and give a good, soaking watering. Make sure that the water drains out where you want it to go.

Here are some tips on how to handle perennials:

  • Be gentle. Don’t handle the plants roughly or you may damage them.
  • Help the roots take hold. Either tease apart the roots a bit or lightly score the sides with a sharp knife, which inspires new root growth. Then you can place the perennial in its hole.
  • Make sure the soil is ready. Don’t plant them in waterlogged ground, or drench them right after planting. Too much water can stop oxygen from getting to the roots, and the plants will drown or rot.

After you have your plants in the ground, cover around the stems with mulch. This will stop weeds from taking over and stealing nutrients from your perennials. It will also hold in soil moisture and protecting your plants from drying out quickly.

In cold-winter areas, mulch protects plant roots from helps prevent frost-heaving, which can literally push plants out of the ground by the natural expansion and contraction of the soil as it cools off and heats up. In hot-summer areas, it can help keep plant roots cooler all season long.

If you follow these helpful hints (and – cough cough – use the right tools to get your garden beds ready) and you can look forward to flourishing spring perennials adding beauty to your home and neighborhood.

And if you make the neighbors just a little bit jealous… well, that’s okay too!

 


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