Tag Archives: dill

Fall Herb Harvest

To Everything There is a Season

After months of planting, tending and growing, it is now time to reap what we have sown. An author once wrote that harvesting herbs can be an odd blend of glamour and strain. It’s a lot of work to gather all the leaves and blooms at the right time and labor through the process of preserving them, but it’s also hugely satisfying to fill beautiful baskets with bunches of herbs and decorate your kitchen with clusters of your crop.

A Time for Every Purpose

Timing is everything, and the purpose you have for each type of herb influences how you harvest it and how you choose to preserve it. The oils in the plant are what contain the flavor and smell we are trying to capture. It is key to pick the plants at their peak. Overripe herbs get stalky when they direct their energy toward flower and seed production, so the flavor weakens as their peak wanes.

The proper timing depends on what part of the plant you are using and what it will be used for. Leaves have the highest concentration of oils just before budding. Begin your harvest when there is enough foliage on the plant to maintain growth. It is best to collect in the early morning after dew dries but before heat sets in.

Fall is the best time to harvest herb roots, such as ginseng, bloodroot, chicory and goldenseal after their foliage fades. Annuals can be harvested until frost. Timing varies with each herb, so you’ll want to research the herbs in your garden to make sure you choose the right time for what you have.

A Time to Preserve

Though it is ideal to use fresh herbs for cooking, we can retain some of their fragrance and flavor to use when the growing season is over. We have many options for preserving them.

A Time to Gather and Dry

Traditional Bunching Method – To gather herbs for quick drying, use the “bunching method” of collecting. When the plants are completely dry, cut the herbs with kitchen shears at the lowest set of clean leaves. It works well to grab a small group in one hand and cut the stalks with the other. Do a quick check for weeds, insects and discoloration at this point. Then lay the herbs in your harvesting basket so they all point in the same direction and are easy to bunch. Group about a dozen stems together and secure tightly with a rubber band around the base at about an inch and half from the stem’s end.

Hang the bunches in a cool room away from direct sunlight because light destroys the herb’s essential oils and color. The bunches can become part of your kitchen décor, or you can string them across your pantry. Make sure air can flow around the bunches to speed up the drying process. Most fast-drying herbs get crispy dry in a week or less, depending on the humidity level.

When the leaves are hard and the stems get brittle, it’s time to strip the leaves. You can either roll the whole bunch back and forth between your hands over a bowl, or take one stem at a time and sweep down the stalk with your hand to drive the leaves into a container. Store them in reused jars with lids inside cabinets away from light. They should keep for a year.

The herbs that are easy to dry include sage, thyme, summer savory, dill, and parsley. Basil, mints, and tarragon must be dried quickly or they can mold and discolor.

Screen Drying Method – You can also dry herbs by spreading them out on window screens. Simply place the screens horizontally on something so that air flows through the mesh. Spread the herbs out over them, making sure to turn the leaves over frequently so they dry evenly.

Microwave Drying Method – This method works well for small amounts of herbs. Layer paper towels and clean, dry leaves in the microwave oven. Heat for one or two minutes on high. Let them cool and then test for brittleness. If they don’t break easily, heat again for 30 seconds. Repeat as needed.

Conventional Oven Method – You can also dry herbs in a conventional oven. Spread the leaves out on a cookie sheet and bake them at 150 degrees. Stir often until dry. If you can smell them as they bake, turn down the heat.

Dehydration Method – Another excellent tool for drying herbs is a home food dehydrator. Follow the directions provided with the dehydrator.

A Time to Freeze

Freezing is another easy way to preserve your harvest. Rinse the plants first in cold water, pat dry with a paper towel, then remove leaves and chop. You can put liberal amounts of herbs into ice cube trays with water and freeze them that way. Once they are frozen, you’ll want to transfer them to air tight containers. Or, you can spread the herbs out on a platter to freeze. Either way, this method is not suitable for using the herbs as garnish, but they will be great for cooking. They should not be refrozen.

Harvest More Than Just Herbs

Nuts aren’t herbs of course, but at this time of year they are ready for harvesting, too. Just for fun, it’s amusing to compete with the squirrels to see who can amass the most nuts. The Weasel Nut Gatherer gives you a great competitive edge, almost guaranteeing you can out-gather the squirrels. It’s easy to roll it along to pick up pecans, acorns, walnuts, butternuts, hickory nuts, chestnuts, filberts, gum balls, seeds, and more. No bending over, and it saves time. To bring a little fall beauty into my home, I like to collect buckets full of acorns and glue them to a large cardboard ring to create a wreath.

Fall is such a picturesque time of year. While you are out working to harvest your herbs, don’t forget to soak up the gorgeous array of autumn color all around you. Enjoy the beauty of the harvest time now, so you can relish the flavors through the next season to come.

Tools List: Weasel Nut Gatherer


Planting for Shady Spaces

Shady spaces can be challenging and discouraging, especially if you can’t get the vision of bright colorful annuals out of your mind. But there are actually some surprising benefits to shady places and lots of hope for creating beautiful gardens there. All it takes is an open mind and a little information.

Advantages of Shady Spaces

Sunlight can create a lot of stress on plants – scorching, wilting, fading and inhibiting growth. Sunny gardens can require a lot of watering maintenance because of these factors.

Shade, on the other hand, often offers locations with rich, cool, loose soil because of the trees and bushes that create it. This is a great environment for plants to grow in.

Weeds don’t like shady spots so you generally find fewer weeds in shady gardens.

Many shade-loving plants are not attractive to pests such as deer and rabbits.

Shade gardens with sitting areas offer respite from summer sun for reading and relaxing.

Types of Shade

It is helpful to know what kind of shade you are dealing with before you purchase plants. The light requirements for full shade plants are different than partial shade plants. Make an assessment by observing your shady areas throughout the course of a sunny day, and take notes.

Light shade – open but protected from direct sunlight
Partial shade – two to six hours of morning or afternoon sunlight
Moderate shade – diffused light through trees or reflected light from buildings
Deep shade – receives no direct sunlight and has limited reflected light, usually under thick growth of trees

You can also evaluate if you are dealing with moist shade or dry shade. Each offers a different soil environment. Most shade-loving plants enjoy moist conditions. Dry shade is found under large trees that consume lots of water. There are some plants to choose fromthat thrive in dry shade. Be sure to take this into consideration when selecting your foliage. Once you know the types of shade you are dealing with, the key is to match your plants to the site.

Creative Tips

Brighten up dark spaces. Yellow, chartreuse and white leaves reflect light. They also stand out among darker greens and browns, adding interest.

Think beyond flowers for color. Open your eyes to see all the beautiful leaf variations of green and yellow, blue and purple. Drive around and observe other shade gardens for inspiration.

Create contrast. Look for different plants that complement each other. Huge chartreuse hostas look fabulous planted with large violet impatiens.

Group creatively. Plant a large group of large dark green plants with one pop of flowering color in the middle. Even a huge cluster of white flowers is stunning in the middle of wonderful greens. Or create a theme in your shade garden. I’ve seen a creative hosta “kitchen garden” planted not with vegetables but only with hostas of kitchen-related names such Java, Cookie Crumbs, Guacamole and Fried Green Tomatoes.

Consider texture in your shade garden and mix it up. Look at leaf shape and variety. An interesting example would be the spikey green leaves of ornamental grass popping out of bright yellow-green circular leaves of Creeping Yellow Jeannie.

Choose varying heights. Many shade plants are short so include taller varieties as well.

Work with nature. Plant early spring flowering bulbs under trees that bud later for that desired pop of color before the shade sets in. If you do crave some vibrant color, many annuals do enjoy a little afternoon shade. (Impatiens, Caladium, Edging Lobelia)

Shade-loving Plants

Flowering

The good news is there are many flowering plants for shady spots. Plants use light to make food through photosynthesis, and with the right selection of flowering plant and shade spot, there can be enough light in shade for the plant to have energy to flower. If there is not enough light, you can thin trees or shrubs, but flowering foliage won’t grow in dense shade.

Some of the flowering options include: Astilbe, Coral Bells, Hellebor (Christmas Rose), Yellow Corydalis, Dead Nettle, Bigroot Geranium, Bergenia, Begonia, Impatiens, Polyanthus, Hosta, Foxglove, Epimedium, Old Fashioned Bleeding Heart, Gardenia, Honeysuckle and Lungwort.

Many herbs grow well in the shade as well, such as basil, chives and dill. Rhododendron and Hydrangea offer the bright colors like annuals, but prefer partial shade. They have important soil considerations you need to research, but are great part-shade options.

Foliage

Plants that love shade often have wonderful large leaves because they gather light through them, and they often are chlorophyll rich (which means lots of green). Non-flowering varieties can be found in the form of ground cover, plants, shrubs and trees, including Wild Ginger, Ajuga, Ivy, Bamboo, Boxwood, Japanese Laurel, Japanese Maple, Winterberry, Ferns (there is a huge selection of this shade plant to choose from that adds great texture to your garden). Moss plants such as Sheet Moss and Cushion Moss are ideal for shade as they grow without roots and can survive in most all poor soil conditions.

Now you’ve got some inspiration and information to go transform your shady spaces into beautiful places!


Nothing Beats the Tastes of Fresh Herbs From Your Own Herb Garden

Chefs around the world know there’s one “not-so-secret” to healthy, flavorful meals: Fresh ingredients.

Nothing gives a dish more punch than plucking herbs straight from the garden and adding them to the recipe. That’s one reason so many of the world’s finest restaurants have herb gardens readily available — either indoors, behind the building or a short drive away.

Isn’t it time to start your own?

You don’t need much room,
and most environments are perfect for growing herbs outdoors. But they also flourish in small indoor gardens, so having enough room doesn’t have to be an issue.

First, decide how big you want your garden. This will depend on how much variety you want. You only need an area about 12 x 18 inches for each herb. A good outdoor kitchen garden can be an area 20 feet long and 4 feet wide. Here’s a tip: make a diagram and labels for each section, as things can get confusing!

Where to put your herb garden

When choosing a site, think drainage – perhaps the most important single factor in growing herbs. The simple fact is herbs won’t grow in wet soils. To improve drainage, remove the soil to a depth of 15 inches or so. At the bottom, place a three-inch layer of pea gravel covered with compost or peat moss, then add the original soil back on top. Refill the beds higher than the original level to allow the soil to settle.

You don’t need much, if any fertilizer, either. In general, highly fertile soil produces excessive foliage that doesn’t have much flavor. Adding a few bushels of peat or compost every 100 square feet of garden helps improve soil condition and retain moisture.

Very few diseases or insects attack herbs, though rust can infect mints. In hot, dry weather, red spider mites may be found on low-growing plants. Aphids may attack anise, caraway, dill, and fennel.

A few herbs, such as mint, need to be contained or they will overtake a garden. Plant them in a can or bucket; punch several holes just above the bottom rim for drainage. You can also use a drain tile, clay pot, or cement block. Just sink them into the ground and they’ll confine any plant for years.

If you’re in a pinch for room, you can grow herbs in containers, window boxes, or hanging baskets. Just give them more of your attention, especially when it comes to watering.

If you sowed seeds in the winter, now is the time to transplant your seedlings. A rule of thumb is that the finer the seed, the shallower it should be sown. Anise, coriander, dill, and fennel should be sown directly in the garden because they don’t transplant well.

Get biennials directly into the ground in late spring. Work the soil to a fine texture and wet it slightly. Sow the seeds in very shallow rows and firm the soil over them. Do not plant them too deeply. Fine seeds, such as marjoram, savory, or thyme, will spread more evenly if you mix them with sand. Some larger seeds can be covered by up to 1/8-inch of soil. With fine seeds, cover the bed with wet burlap or paper to keep the soil moist. Water with a fine spray to keep your soil from washing away.

Cutting plants can be helpful in propagating certain herbs. When your seeds are slow to germinate, try cutting the plants. Also, be ready to divide certain herbs from the pack, like tarragon, chives, and mint. Lavender should pretty much always be cut.

Harvesting Herbs

Once the foliage is flourishing, it’s time to start harvesting your bounty! This is the fun part. Seek out recipes that ask for the herbs in your garden and put them to work! It’s amazing the difference that fresh-picked herbs will add to your meals. You can pick fresh leaves as soon as the plant has enough foliage to maintain growth.

To ensure proper oil content and the best flavor, pick leaves after the morning dew is gone – but before the sun heats up. For dry, winter use, harvest leaves and seed heads before the flower buds open. Pick them as the color changes from green to brown or gray. Wash leaves and seed heads in cold water; then drain thoroughly, dry and use.

Enjoy the explosion of flavor that is sure to come from a bountiful herb garden!

 


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