Detracting the Deer

I have found two products that work fantastically to keep deer away from absolutely everything. One is pricey but effective, and one is cheap but has a little bit of a gross factor.

“Not Tonight, Deer” – My in-laws battled deer and were constantly telling us funny stories of their attempts to keep them away. They had tried everything under the sun but nothing worked. I found this product to give them as a gag gift for Christmas one year. Much to our surprise, it worked! It is all-natural and non-toxic. The down side is it’s pretty pricey. You can find more information about it and order it from NotTonight.com.

Milorganite – Your local gardening store can be a wealth of resources. That is where I learned about this product. While chatting with the owner of my favorite nursery, I mentioned my frustration with disappearing tulips. I have a huge bed of all different color purple tulips. For years every time they bloomed I’d wake up the next morning excited to enjoy them and all that would be left were green stubs. The nursery owner told me about milorganite, which is actually a fertilizer that happens to work as an exceptional deer repellant. The gross factor? It’s made from human waste. This is why it’s such a good repellant: man is a deer’s greatest predator. But, it’s cheap and absolutely effective. You can sprinkle a border around your property and deer will no longer make unexpected visits. We now enjoy our tulip bed through the entire spring until they lose their petals on their own. Learn more about it at Milorganite.com.

Battling the Bunnies

Cute as can be, rabbits are some of the worst culprits for garden gobbling. Working with nature to keep these critters away may prove challenging but it’s the most humane (or weasel-mane in my case).

Target Taste – Organic gardeners recommend an approach that makes the foliage taste unappealing. Finding natural products that bunnies dislike is the key, and applying them to plants diligently and repeatedly is important. Rabbits remember the bad taste and don’t come back. Some of these items include hot chili, garlic, cayenne pepper, vinegar, tobasco sauce or chili powder. My favorite recipe is to use beaten eggs with water, hot sauce, ground pepper and garlic powder. I mix these together, let them sit out for a couple of days and apply it to my plants before they bloom. The plants are unharmed, the stink and taste are horrible, and the eggs help the mixture stay on even through rain and watering.

Blood or bone meal are also recommended but must be used properly.

If you try these natural remedies and still have problems, don’t be discouraged. A lot of your success depends on how the extent of the rabbit population. It may be that the best or only solution is a fence. Make sure it doesn’t have any holes or Peter Rabbit may still pay you a visit even though his parents told him not to.

Scrapping with Squirrels

Squirrels are another garden invader we don’t welcome to share our harvest with. It’s ingrained in their nature to scavenge and find food and they are creative and relentless, so the battle can be intense.

Distraction – One of my fellow weasel friends has had great success by simply providing a diversion. He places heaps of nuts in a large bowl out away from his garden to keep the squirrels busy. It really works to distract them from taking what he’s growing for himself.

Squirrel “Scarecrows” – Statues of predators, like owls, also work to scare off squirrels. Or, having the real thing around works, too. Having a dog to chase the squirrels works well for keeping the squirrels away.

Have you had some funny experiences battling pests in your garden? We’d love to read your stories.

What works for you to combat the competition in your garden? Please share your successes with us!

Father’s Day is approaching soon and I am pleased to have the opportunity to give my hubby, Woodrow D. Weasel, a break from his work this week and tell you about some of his favorite gardening tools. He does not like to boast about them because they do bear his name, but I can tell you, he is never happier than when he is working in the garden and using these tools. If you are looking for a gift idea for the fathers in your life, let me tell you about some of my husband’s favorites as food for thought.

For the Efficient Gardener

The Original Garden Weasel – Ideal for the man who loves to garden or the man for whom those tasks are just duties, this is truly what Woodrow calls “the perfect garden tool.” Men are all about efficiency, right? Well, that’s what is so brilliant about this tool: everything about it is efficient. It combines the functions of both a hoe and a spade, but accomplishes the work twice as fast and with half the effort. Who wouldn’t love that?! In one tool, you can give the dad in your life the ability to till, cultivate and aerate soil, AND it is useful not only in the flower and vegetable gardens, but for maintaining the all-important lawn as well! How?

Well, in the garden, this tool can be used at all stages: to create new areas, to prepare and maintain established ones. The tines are easily removed so that cultivating and aerating around new plant growth is a breeze. Weed removal is made so much easier with this tool. The rotating action of the tines pulls weeds up to the surface.

In the lawn, the Garden Weasel helps the lawn breathe, absorb water and hold grass seed. It is useful for prepping bare spots before reseeding. The tines loosen the soil to a constant 1 ½” depth, creating a perfect follicle for new seeds to capture moisture and promote growth.

The high quality design of the Garden Weasel has been perfected over more than 30 years—it has a comfort-grip handle, is weather and rust resistant with durable carbon steel construction and is easy to clean by simply spraying with the hose after use.

For the Immaculate Gardener

The Weasel Nut Gatherer or Weasel Gatherer Pro – Some gardeners are not satisfied until their gardens are perfectly clean, neat and tidy. If nuts, shells, small pine cones, seed heads and other debris drive the dad in your life crazy, then the Weasel Nut Gatherer is the tool for him. No more bending over or struggling to rid the yard of that annoying rubble. With the Weasel Nut Gatherer the job becomes fun because it’s quick and so easy to use: just roll it back and forth over the area to pick up nuts and more. To empty, just spread the tines apart over a bucket or trash to empty.

It comes in two sizes to pick up almost anything, including pecans, acorns, walnuts, butternuts, hickory nuts, chestnuts, filberts, gum balls, seeds and more. Also picks up fruit and small balls. Some users report using the Weasel Nut Gatherer to pick up: small pine cones, seed heads, shotgun shells, reusable paintballs and a variety of other waste.
The rotating basket is a durable, super strong steel design.

For the Weed-Obsessed Gardener

The Weed Popper Step & Twist – For some of the dads in our lives, nothing drives them crazier than to look out at their beautiful lawn and see a bright yellow dot of a dandelion or weed in the garden. The best gift you can give this guy is the Weed Popper Step & Twist! Weed-pulling can be back-breaking work, but with this awesome tool, no bending, kneeling or straining is necessary. From a standing position, he can just step, turn, pull and pop the weed out.

The unique plug-ejecting feature of this tool makes pulling even the most stubborn dandelions a painless pleasure. It easily pulls out a plug of soil containing the weed and its roots, which can be ejected directly into compost or trash. It is also effective for grassy type weeds like crabgrass. An added benefit is all-natural control of weeds because it eliminates the need for harmful chemicals. The Weed Popper can also be used for digging holes or planting flowers.

For any of these products, you can view more information, find a retailer near you, or order online at www.GardenWeasel.com. All of them have limited lifetime warranties. Take it from our family: you can select your Father’s Day gifts today with confidence that you can give your gardener a present that will become his favorite gardening tool, too.

Memorial Day has come and gone – and even though the calendar says the start of summer is June 21, for most people, summer is already here.

If you have been putting off planting a few new trees or shrubs, fear not. Your procrastination might actually pay off. Here are some great late-spring trees and shrubs you can still plant with great success.

In many parts of the country, the cooler temperatures, plentiful rain and high humidity make for ideal conditions. Here are some great trees to plant now:

Spring Snow Crabapple

This deciduous small ornamental tree grows up to 20 feet tall and is completely covered with white flowers in the spring. Once the blooms fade, all summer long you’ll enjoy bright green leaves.

Bradford Pear

If you want a fast-growing shade tree with an ornamental beauty, this one is hard to beat. Great for city conditions and poor soil, Bradford Pears grow to 30 feet tall and give you white flowers in spring – and red and gold foliage in the fall.

Ivory Silk Tree Lilac 


This tree is known as a hardy, vigorous tree with a rounded crown. You can brighten your spring garden with its clusters of white flowers. This lilac is perfect for accenting your landscape or planting in groups in the full sun for the best flowering.

Red Select Cherry 


This ornamental small tree offers you two spring months of white flowers and grows to heights of 25 feet when planted in full sun with good drainage. The tree grows in pyramid shape – with light green new growth, and red leaves as they mature.

Toba Hawthorne 


Here is a small, deciduous tree with an upright, rounded habit and no thorns. This hardy tree offers fragrant white blooms that turn pink and are followed by red fruit. Known for a unique twisted trunk, Hawthornes can grow to 15 feet tall and 12 feet wide in full sun.

And here are some shrubs to add beauty and fragrance to your yard:

Miss Kim Lilac

This new hardy dwarf lilac is a compact, deciduous shrub. Fragrant and late-flowering, plant this in full sun for a shrub that will grow up to five feet tall and three feet wide.

Bridal Wreath Spirea


An easy-to-grow shrub that stands up to the elements and offers rich fall foliage. White flowers in spring are a highlight of this shrub that grows to six feet tall and wide. Plant in full sun.

Forsythia

This is a fast-growing, upright shrub with bright yellow flowers covering arching branches. Lynwood Gold Forsythia grows up to 10 feet tall and is perfect for mass plantings in full sun.

Purple Lilac

Fill your yard’s shrub areas with large clusters of fragrant, lavender blooms every spring. These fast-growing shrubs offer give you up to 12 feet tall and wide swaths of foliage.

A few notes. Check the soil drainage before you plant anything. You’ll want to allow for plenty of drainage by planting on berms or raised soil mounds. You can also boost drainage by running perforated drain piping through a gravel-filled underground trench. Make sure you have the drain set about 18 inches deep in the soil.

Dig a wide, shallow planting hole – at least twice the width of a plant’s roots. Give your roots oxygen by creating open spaces between particles of soil.

Don’t overdo the pruning. Unpruned, or lightly pruned trees tend to do better than pruned trees in the first year of re-planting. This is because the roots can keep up with the demand for water if the soil has plenty of moisture. So make sure you water regularly!

Finally, fertilize as needed. Talk to your local garden center professional for tips on your specific soil and climate conditions. It’s most important not to deprive new plantings of nitrogen and other nutrients after planting.

Good luck and have a great year of spring planting!

What is the difference between fertilizer and compost? Fertilizer focuses on feeding plants. If not used properly, it can be detrimental to soil. Compost enriches soil and has long-term benefits for healthy soil. It encourages microbe growth, increases nutrients, helps manage moisture and conditions the soil. Benefits of compost include reducing the need for commercial fertilizers, improving water retention, increasing plant production and growth, and protecting against disease.

You may have a picture in your mind of a big, ugly pile of decomposing leaves, or a cordoned corner of a yard that requires a lot of work and space. And this type of backyard composting is an effective way to do it if you have the room and the time. The good news you can get creative about composting. There are actually three types of composting that offer different options—one that requires air to decompose (aerobic), one that doesn’t need air (anaerobic) and one that simply requires a little help (from a certain kind of worm).

Here are some outside-the-box ways (well, actually they are technically inside-a-bin, but super creative nevertheless) to compost within those three categories:

Compost “Worm Factory”

(a.k.a. “vermiculture composting”)

One of the most highly regarded and expensive soil amendments you can buy is worm castings (or worm poop). In this creative option for composting, special types of worms do all the work to break down vegetation. It can be done inside, and doesn’t take much space, so it’s ideal for apartments or homes without a good location for large backyard compost. The process is odorless because the worms work fast. This is not a job for just any worm, though: red wigglers have a special calling for compost creation.

You can either make your own worm bin, or buy a manufactured one. WormFactory.com has some cool choices for around $80. To build your own, use 6” deep plastic storage bins with tops, drill holes in the top and in each bottom corner, place shredded newspaper in the bottom and moisten with water but don’t saturate (worms like moisture), mix in some topsoil, then add red wiggler worms. Add broken up garden or vegetable scraps.

To maintain, keep bin in a dark, ventilated area that remains between 50-75 degrees F. Stir about once a month, add moisture or shredded paper as needed. Don’t let water accumulate.

To harvest, in about two months the matter should become dark brown. You can place a large piece of vegetation and let the worms congregate around it then gather up the goods. Worm castings are actually toxic to the worms so harvesting is important.

Your “worm factory” can convert 5–6 pounds of food scraps per week into 10–15 gallons of compost each year.

Compost Tea

(a.k.a. aerobic / aerated composting)

Compost tea is a liquid created by “steeping” mature compost in water with a sugar solution to create a nutrient supplement that can be applied directly to plant leaves or added into the soil. It can replace chemically-based fertilizers, pesticides and fungicides.

You can purchase a compost tea brewing system online at places like Simplici-Tea.com or create your own using 5 gallon buckets, mature compost, an aquarium pump (for aeration), a gang value (to divide air stream), non-chlorinated water, aquarium hose and unsulfured molasses.

Attach 3 pieces of 12” long hose to the gang valve, place valve on the side of the bucket and make sure ends touch the bottom inside. Place a gallon of compost in the bottom of the bucket. Add 4 gallons of chlorine-free water and 1 ounce of molasses as a food source for the microorganisms. Turn on the aquarium pump and let the mixture brew for 2-3 days. Stir the brew occasionally to help mix the compost and separate the microorganisms from the solid compost particles. After brewing, strain the tea using cheesecloth into another bucket. If it smells bad, do not use it on your plants, but you can dump it back into a compost pile. Once you’ve strained it, apply immediately to your plants (the beneficial microbes die after the air stops circulating).

(It goes without saying, you don’t want to serve this tea to humans–with or without crumpets…)

Japanese Bokashi Compost

(a.k.a. “anaerobic composting”)

Bokashi is a Japanese term for “fermented organic matter.” This method uses micro-organisms to ferment organic waste without the need for air. The effective micro-organisms (called EM) are inoculated into a carrier like rice, wheat bran or saw dust. These are natural lactic acid bacteria, yeast and phototrophic bacteria serving as a microbe community. The process is done in a closed, air-tight system so as long as it stays contained it doesn’t make a stink and is great for inside use. Under the sink is ideal. The unique thing about this type of composting is that you can compost ALL your food scraps—meat and dairy included, not just vegetation. It only takes two weeks with very little effort. Just add your scraps, a “bokashi bran” (carrier for the microorganisms) and leave it alone for 14 days. The end product is called pre-compost and can be added to a compost bin or put into the soil (it takes 2-4 weeks to break down completely into the soil.).

BokashiComposting.com offers a neat, tidy bokashi composting kit, as well as the “bran” you need to get started.

Now that spring is in full throttle, it is time to consider planting summer bulbs that add their own unique beauty and drama to gardens in the summer. Let’s shine a bit of the spotlight on these more tender but equally amazing summer bulb flowers and foliage.

Casting Call: Spectacular Summer Color

Bulb flowers are just like Hans Christian Anderson’s Ugly Duckling. They start out as dreadful-looking, potato-like gray knobs that emerge to become some of the most beautiful, graceful stars of a garden “theater.” Make a scene with the huge blooms and bursts of almost every color in the rainbow offered by summer bulb flowers. Some of these beauties to audition for your “cast of characters” include:

Dahlias – These flowers receive top billing in my book. Their blooms are magnificent and varied; some look like luxurious carnations while others are more pointy and delicate. They come in many rich colors except blue: mixed, orange, pink, purple, red, white and yellow. Best of all, they grow in many sizes, ranging from petite pom-pom varieties to huge dinner plate-size blooms.

Gladiolas – The name “gladiolus” means “little sword” for its sword-like leaves, and these color-filled stalks provide tall lines of color in your landscape. They also come in almost every color except blue. With more than 100 varieties, you can find them in all sizes, from miniatures (flowers 2 ½”) to giants (flowers 5 ½”). They make terrific cut flowers.

Cannas – The giant leaves of the canna flower are as beautiful as the blooms. The leaf foliage grows in green, bronze or purple. The Greek word “canna” means “reed” and describes the stem rising up out of the center of the foliage and bearing the large, ruffled flowers, which are most commonly seen in deep red but can also grow in pink, orange, yellow or white.

Crocosmia – Also known by its common name, Montbretia, this summer plant grows sprays of grass-like stems with small dabbles of orange or red impressionist painter-like flowers atop. The plant grows so vigorously in all conditions it is considered a weed to some.

Tuberous Begonias – This glamorous bulb is one of the few summer bulbs that grow well in shade. It produces rose-like flowers in many colors (white, pink, rose, red, orange or yellow) and sizes (from 3” to the size of a salad plate). These begonias offer a variety of flower types, from single and double flowered to frilly or plain petals.

Foliage – There are also some beautiful foliage options to include such as elephant ears and caladium. These two large-leafed plants in particular offer amazing texture and color options.

Setting the Stage: Selecting and Planting Summer Bulbs

Growing bulbs is relatively easy. Each type of flower has different planting and care needs so be sure to read the packaging and follow instructions for each type of bulb you purchase.

Bulb Selection – Select bulbs that are firm to touch and show no signs of mold or damage. The bigger the bulb, the bigger the bloom. You also want bulbs that are as fresh as possible.

When to Plant – Timing depends on your climate zone. Mild climates can plant bulbs in early spring while colder zones require planting in late spring or early summer.

Where to Plant – Generally speaking, summer bulb flowers love warm soil and lots of sun, though there are some exceptions (like tuberous begonias, for example). Be sure to note the particular needs of the flower you select.

Prepare the Soil – Different bulbs have different soil requirements, so check the instructions. Bulbs are prone to rotting so well-drained soil is important; amending your soil with organic matter can improve drainage. Use your Garden Weasel to cultivate the soil so it is loose and inviting to your bulbs. This is important for the roots to spread and get well established.

How to Plant –You can plant individual bulbs in their own holes, or create a trench for several bulbs. It is nice to plant bulb flowers in groups. Ideally, dig the hole larger than what you need and fill with loose dirt. The size of the bulb tells you how deep to plant the bulb: it should be two to three times the diameter of the bulb. Place the bulb in the hole, making sure the roots are facing downward and the growing point faces up. Cover with dirt, then pat it down. Bulbs have their own food supply but to maximize performance you can add high-phosphorus bulb food under the roots, and later when the plant starts to grow, fertilize with all-purpose fertilizer. There are special planting tips for each type of flower so do consult the instructions on this, too.

Take a Bow

When mid-summer comes and your gorgeous flowers grace the garden, bring some friends over for the colorful flower show – and enjoy the applause they’re sure to receive!

For our purposes, we mean growing what we eat, right in our own back yard. Other terms you’ll hear that are related include edible garden, kitchen or vegetable garden (after World War II they were called “Victory Gardens”). Even the White House has a kitchen garden so the first family and their guests can eat fresh, local and organic.

There are many different reasons people grow their own food…economics, availability, environment, organics, and enjoyment to name a few… Whatever your reasons, there’s nothing like eating something you’ve grown!

From Terra Firma to Tabletop

Let your edible garden start with a vision of what you want to eat.

Start Small – What’s your favorite fresh herb to cook with? Start with that. Fresh herbs can be expensive to buy but easy to grow in almost any container indoors or outdoors. What’s your favorite vegetable? Contact your local extension office to find out if it grows well in your climate. Starting with things you like to eat makes it fun and motivating to cultivate and tend.

Think Themes - There are some creative ways to decide what you’d like to grow, and one fun method is to design a themed vegetable garden. If your family loves pizza, why not create a circular “Pizza Garden” with tomatoes in the center and peppers, onions, garlic and basil in circles around them. Or you could call it your “Italian Garden” and add eggplant, arugula and oregano (or a “Pasta Sauce” garden?).

A “Taco Garden” might have tomatoes, lettuce, cilantro and onions. A “Salad Garden” could contain several kinds of lettuce (spinach, radicchio, bok choy, kale, endive), different tomato varieties, cucumbers, radishes, parsley, scallions and even edible flowers like nasturtiums. Or how about a “Soup Garden” comprised of parsley, potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, garlic, thyme and rosemary?

Thrill the children in your life with a “Kids Garden” and grow some mini pumpkins, sunflowers, strawberries, melons, and Marigolds (yes, the petals of all varieties are edible with a citrus flavor). You might leave out the broccoli in that garden…or, maybe kids would eat their broccoli if they grew it!

How to Start Growing What You Eat

You can start small by growing just one food item this year, or you can jump in and create an entire garden. Either way, here are a few things to think about in the planning stages:

Space – How much available space you actually have will determine what you are able to grow, but don’t be discouraged. With a little research, you may discover you can grow things in different ways than you’d imagined. Raised bed gardens, hanging baskets, container gardening all open up opportunities for planting.

Sunlight – Observing how much sun and shade your growing spaces get will also impact what you can grow. Monitor your space for sunlight and study how much sun the food you’d like to grow requires.

Soil – The essential aspect of successful growth is good soil. Make sure you know what type of soil you have and amend it to meet the needs of what you want to grow.

Surrounding Vegetation – Trees require a lot of water and nutrients, so make sure you plant your garden away from competing foliage.

Support – Tending vegetable and other edibles requires time and attention. Get your family on board to help out and make some great memories, too. Try to work in the garden daily, even if only for 15 minutes.

Some Tips for Designing Your Garden

Raised bed gardens allow you to maximize the soil quality so that you can grow more in smaller spaces. (see our post from March of last year on Raised Bed Gardening!) Keyhole gardens are good for small leafy crops (spinach, lettuce) and small root crops (carrots, onions).

Trench gardens are good for larger items like tomatoes and green beans. Homestead gardeners appreciate the value of having a compost pile for vegetable gardens. Compost provides easy, inexpensive nutrients for the soil, and gives you an easy place to dispose of kitchen waste. It is a wonderful delight to pick something and eat it right off the vine from your own home garden.

Something about it just tastes better! So go ahead, give it a try this year. Become a modern “homesteader” and grow something to eat.

This week’s post is going to be a bit different… Not the standard gardening tips, how-to’s, favorite spring bulbs, etc. No, this week we are going to address an ongoing, building “concern” in our industry – one that is, in fact, knocking at our own back door. The issue surrounding the inappropriate use of gardening tools.

There is no shortage of lore on the use… or, shall we say, “misuse” of gardening implements over the course of time. If one were to look closely, you would find a variety of ordinary lawn and garden tools involved in uprisings and peasant rebellions all throughout the history of man. In fact, elite groups such as the legendary “ninja” often disguised themselves as gardeners, fashioning their weaponry after garden tools, so that in the event they were discovered, they might be able to claim these to be the tools of their “public”, and – more appropriate – trade.

Heck, even the Grim Reaper wanders around employing a scythe - allegedly used for cutting and harvesting – to harvest… well, let’s just say he is not using it in the gardens or fields, as it was originally intended.

In the past several years, we’ve noticed a growing trend of misuse when it comes to not only “gardening implements” in general, but our own Garden Weasel product line as well. So many, in fact, that we’ve had to dedicate a team to tracking, documenting and providing proper disclaimer with respect to these “Unauthorized Uses” of our products.

For example, the Garden Weasel made a very brief cameo in Zombieland, with Woody Harrelson showing it as one of many ways to dispatch of his undead counterparts. In fact, on the zombie note, I am almost certain I saw a Garden Weasel in the background in a Walking Dead episode this past season. I’ll be willing to bet there are more examples of zombies and gardening tools meeting out there somewhere… But the Garden Weasel-undead relationship doesn’t even end THERE…

Apparently the Original Garden Weasel, based on its “quality craftsmanship and durability”, is a weapon of choice among young vampire hunters.

Now, I realize this all feels a bit dark, and that these tools may appear to “invoke violence” outside of the garden. Let me assure you, this is not entirely the case. Why, I even promoted our (now discontinued) Garden Glide product as a most excellent sled for hitting your favorite winter hill once in a blog post. Rest assured, our tools have been used for entertaining  and practical purposes far beyond warfare and weaponry.

Did I say “entertainment”? How about the world of music. It’s not really an “Unauthorized Use” of our tool, but close – it’s an Unauthorized Use of our NAME! I am – to this day – uncertain as to whether we inspired the name of this early 90′s Punk Rock band “Garden Weasel” or not – but if I were guessing, the names of songs like “Your Green Thumb”, “Uncoil Your Hose”, and “Santa Likes to Garden” would lead me to believe that we were of at least a bit of influence… Either way, our Team can safely deem this highly “Unauthorized”!

That leads nicely into the actual USE (albeit Unauthorized!) of an Original Garden Weasel in the percussion section of an orchestra. While this has happened more times than I can count, there is at least one video where, if you listen close, you might here the beautiful sounds of Weasel-tines a-purring  somewhere deep within the complexity of the TCU percussion Orchestra’s performance.

But I digress… sometimes we are entertained not by our ears, but by our eyes.

This is where our next Unauthorized Use brings a bit of danger to our lighter, more entertaining examples… There are a number of jugglers out there who have worked the Garden Weasel into their routines. Here’s one example of a very, very Unauthorized Use!

Needless to say, we are now keeping a close eye on all Unauthorized Use of our brand and products. And I have this… call it a hunch – we’ll be seeing more Unauthorized Use of our tools in the very near future. In the mean-time, have you seen any Unauthorized Use of Garden Weasel or any of our other garden tools? If you have, we’d love to have you share. Weasel on over to our Facebook page and post your findings! Help us “police” the misuse of our beloved Garden Implements!

What is Fertilizer?

It helps to clarify that, technically, fertilizer isn’t actually “food” for your grass. If you remember from biology class in school, plants use the photosynthesis process to make their own food with a combination of sunlight, air and water. That’s the work that goes on primarily above the ground in the leaves. Underneath the ground, the soil provides nutrients and minerals to the root system, but often the soil gets depleted or needs supplements. So maybe that’s a good way to look at fertilizer – more like taking vitamins and mineral supplements. However, these elements are vital for the plants to grow so in that way, fertilizer is like food.

Essential Ingredients – The 17 essential elements that plants and lawns need are divided into two categories: macro- and micro-nutrients. Three of the elements (carbon, hydrogen and oxygen) are taken from air and water. Fertilizer can provide many of the remaining must-have elements that roots utilize from the soil.

The three primary ingredients of fertilizer are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium/potash (K). On every bag of fertilizer you’ll see those initials in that order – NPK – and numbers associated with it. This is how the industry communicates what percentage by weight of each ingredient is in what you buy. The numbers are not a ratio and are not how many pounds of that ingredient are in the bag. It is percentage by weight: if the bag weighs 25 lbs and first number on the bag (N) is 10, then the bag contains 2.5lbs of Nitrogen (not 10 lbs).

The micro-nutrients are often called “trace elements” and every fertilizer varies in what micro-nutrients are included. Check the ingredients for these, such as calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, chlorine, copper, manganese, zinc, molybdenum, and boron.

Types and Options – There are two types of fertilizer available: organic and commercial.

Organic fertilizers come in options that are naturally-occurring (manure, worm castings and pea) or processed (compost, blood meal, bone meal).

Commercial fertilizers come in organic or inorganic material of natural or synthetic origin (lime, gypsum, manipulated animal and vegetable manures).

Biofertilizers (Phospho, Rhizo, Vermi compost) are also an emerging, new product to consider.

Be aware of the impact of your decision about which one to use. Some states have banned the use of phosphorus (P) and limited nitrogen (N) because of environmental concerns. Yet organic fertilizers are harder to measure and balance what nutrients you’re adding. Don’t take the decision about which one to choose lightly – do your research and weigh the pros and cons.

Why Fertilize?

Because your soil needs it - Before fertilizing, it is important to know your soil composition so that you aren’t adding chemicals unnecessarily. Test your soil so you know what you’re working with.

To offer a “balanced diet” – Your soil test will show what nutrients are lacking and fertilizer is one way you can put them back in.

For a green lawn – Yellowing, slow-growing lawns may benefit from more nitrogen, which helps lawns be green and grow fast. Nitrogen is the only nutrient that turf grass needs regularly. However, if you apply it too often, the root growth will be inhibited which will lead to other problems.

To promote grass root growth – Slow-release fertilizers do the best job of helping roots grow. Slow release fertilizers release nutrients gradually while fast release fertilizers make them available all at once. Fast release fertilizers can be cheaper, but in general they are not the best option for long-term benefit because they require more water to prevent burning, and a lot of the mineral content can be lost and not utilized by the roots. If you concentrate on building a good root system for you lawn’s grass roots, you will not need to fertilize as frequently. This includes practices such as optimal mowing height (longer than you’d expect), good irrigation (water deep, not frequent and shallow), maintain correct soil pH.

To help young grass get started – New grass seeds require a different combination of NPK than established lawns, so be sure to purchase “starter” fertilizer, or organic, slow-release fertilizer. Avoid fertilizers with weed preventer in them.

When to Fertilize?

Fertilizing at the right time is critical to lawn growth and health, as well as to being environmentally responsible. If your soil testing shows fertilizing is needed, the decision about when is dependent on what kind of grass you grow. In general, cold season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, fescues) need to be fertilized in the fall and energy stored in the roots over winter will provide everything grass needs for spring. Warm season grasses (Zoysia, Bermuda) need to be fertilized before spring rains.

How to Fertilize?

The key is even application. Never apply fertilizer by hand. It will distribute unevenly and it will be obvious soon after because your lawn will be greener in some spots and may burn in others.

For dry fertilizer, use a hand-held or push-type distributor that is designed to apply fertilizer evenly and in specified amounts. Check the bag for instructions about how much you need and do not over apply. Too much fertilizer is not a good thing. Be intentional about your pattern, starting at the ends or edges of the lawn and making your way in. Walk at a normal walking pace and try to keep the same rhythm throughout.

Liquid fertilizers can be applied with water hose applicator. Start at one corner of the lawn and walk backwards as you spray in smooth, even strokes.

When finished, be sure to clean out your applicator and wipe up any overspray or excess.

Well there won’t be any test for you to take over this “Fertilizer 101” material, but the true test will come when you see the results on your greener, better-growing lawn soon!

1. Plant smart.

Even though we live in a certain climate, our own landscapes have distinct micro-climates  Amazingly, even one degree in temperature can make a huge difference, and where you place your plants can truly affect how well they survive temperature drops. Buildings retain warmth so planting near walls, buildings, trees or other heat-retaining structures can emit just enough warmth to make a difference. Though tricky, wind is also something to consider. In the right circumstances it can be a positive force to fight frost because it can keep it from settling on leaves. Cold air sinks, so avoid planting in low areas. It’s also smart to plant foliage that is hardy for your zone. Some options known for their cold-hardiness include crocus, narcissus, pansies and tulip flowers or vegetables like broccoli, carrots, lettuce and peas.

2. Be prepared.

There is a difference between a frost and a freeze, and for the most part it doesn’t matter which one happens, what does matter is how low the temperature gets and for what length of time. Watch the weather report and listen for temperatures below freezing (32F). A “light” frost/freeze means temperatures of about 28F for just a few hours. A “moderate” freeze or “killing” frost means 25-28F for several hours. Below 25F for several hours is “severe.” Have cold-fighting tools on hand and be ready to use them: old blankets, burlap, newspapers, mulch (straw or old leaves), large tubs and old pots, old milk jugs, cloches (jars to set over plants), etc.

3. Prioritize tender plants.

Rather than try to protect your entire garden, prioritize the tender plants that are most vulnerable to cold snaps. If a severe freeze is projected, then more action can be taken to protect other plants, such as wrapping fruit tree trunks with burlap or placing mulch at the base of evergreen trees to keep soil free from frost.

4. Water before freeze.

It may sound crazy to water before a freeze, but actually water insulates plants, it strengthens them to withstand cold damage, and moist soil stays warmer than dry soil. Water the roots (not leaves) a day before the forecasted freeze, and do it well before sunset so the plants have time to absorb it before the cold comes.

5. Cover with cloth.

Soil loses its warmth over time, so the idea behind covering plants is to create a space to contain the warmth for the duration of a cold snap, like a mini-greenhouse. Avoid using plastic, and make sure the cloth doesn’t touch the foliage if possible by using wire or stakes. (If you can’t prevent touching, it’s still better to cover than not.) The cloth can be an old blanket, flannel or fleece material, sheets, towels or burlap. It should touch the ground securely so it won’t flap up. Cover the plants before the sun sets so the warmth has time to establish. If rain is projected, then you can use plastic to cover and protect the cloth.

6. Warm with water jugs.

You can also prolong or increase warmth under the cover by putting warm water in old milk jugs and placing them in with the plants before you secure cover to the ground.

7. Creatively protect.

Other options for protecting plants include using cardboard boxes, old or unused pots turned upside down, bubble wrap to insulate hanging plants, whatever you have on hand. I’ve heard of fruit tree growers using Christmas tree lights to help keep blooms from getting too cold. Some place electric fans to blow on plants. Don’t “throw in the towel” because you think a freeze it going to kill your crop, instead, use it to cover something and know that even that can make a difference.

8. Uncover on time.

Once the frost has cleared, remove the covers and protection. If it sticks around for a while, be sure to give your plants some time in the sun if they are covered completely. And don’t remove covers too soon either because direct morning sun can cause plants to de-frost too quickly.

9. Bring potted plants indoors.

These are particularly vulnerable to cold because their roots are more exposed being in a pot than being in the ground. Root damage will stunt growth. If your pots are too big to move, wrap the pots with blankets to insulate them, and cover the plantings as best you can. If you have hanging plants, you can either bring them inside or lay them on the ground and cover them there.

10. Feed and fertilize (but not too much).

Another thing you can do before a frost to help your garden and landscape survive is to fertilize to make sure the plants have nutrients available and are thriving, but be careful not to over fertilize which can damage and weaken plants.

April snaps don’t have to mean May mishaps. These 10 tips can empower you to fight the frost and freeze so that April showers bring your May flowers, and much harvest throughout the growing season.

When you go on the attack against perennial weeds such as crabgrass, dandelions and “Creeping Charlie” ivy, your best defense is to grow healthy grass in the first place. Weeds can really do a number on turf that has been allowed to decline with numerous bare spots.

So start now!

Your first order of business should be to bring a sample of sod to your neighborhood garden center. A photo or two of your lawn wouldn’t hurt either. Tell the experts about your lawn’s problems, drainage issues and the amount of shade you get.

They will know the climate and general soil conditions of your area. From there, they can recommend the right turf grass to build with, so you have a lawn of good, healthy grass. This alone can do more than anything else to keep out the weeds and not allow them to take root.

Once a year – in spring for warm-season grasses – spend a weekend enjoying the sunshine and working on getting your lawn ready. You can bring your turf to life by doing a core aeration, top-dressing your lawn with topsoil and compost, fertilizing and planting sod or grass seed.

When your lawn is healthy, you only have to perform this intensive weekend of TLC every three years or so.

Throughout the year, take steps to care for your lawn according to the season and grass type. Proper watering, fertilizing, and mowing will go a long way toward strengthening your lawn.

A full-lawn attack on perennial weeds may not be necessary. You can spot-treat weeds like thistle, Creeping Charlie or dandelions. With those weeds, use a spray once they have sprouted. This post-emergent application fights against unwanted weeds that are actively growing.

If there are not too many weeds, it may be easier and just as effective to hand-pull, using a Garden Weasel tool. Just be sure to get all the way down to the roots. If you just yank off the top, you’ll see them peeking out again quickly. Tools, such as the WeedPopper Step & Twist or our WeedPopper Pro are designed to do just that – get down to the roots.

In the spring, spread a pre-emergent herbicide over the yard to control crabgrass before it germinates. One important thing to note is that new seed and any herbicide do not mix. Talk with your lawn center professional about when it is okay to use herbicides.

To choose the correct herbicide, it helps to know the terms on the weed-control labels.

• Pre-Emergent herbicides prevent seed germination, so they don’t do much good after the weeds are growing.
• Post-Emergent herbicides kill growing weeds, usually by interrupting photosynthesis, protein production or root growth. Apply during active growth or in the fall when plants store nutrients in their roots.
• Selective herbicides target only certain types of plants by identifying types of plant chemicals.
• Nonselective herbicides kill any plant they come in contact with. Use for spot-treatment only.
• Total vegetation herbicides kill all plants and sterilize the ground in the short term. Use carefully and sparingly!

It may seem like a lot of work. But putting in the time now to grow a strong, healthy lawn helps you control – and even prevent – weeds from having a fighting chance the rest of the year.