Category Archives: Tools

Winter Warm-ups: Exercises for Gardening

garden exercisesAs we all know, gardening can be physically demanding. Our bodies can get out of shape even after just a few months off during the winter months. Whether you are still needing to get in shape, are working on that New Year’s resolution to get fit, or suffer aches and pains of arthritis or back troubles, getting physically warmed up now for the rigors of spring planting later may help minimize muscle aches and pains when the work begins again. And that “later” is really just around the corner!

Stretching

Making stretching a regular practice is advantageous to gardeners all season long.

Stretching lengthens a muscle and decreases tightness that repetitive motion and exertion create. It’s best to stretch when your muscles are warmed up because they are more elastic and pliable (after a hot shower or physical activity). It’s a good habit to start now, and continue every time you garden.

stretching-bob-anderson

Focus on the parts most affected by the movement demands of our gardener’s bodies. The bending and stooping we do affects our lower back and hips. Our neck, shoulders, upper back and knees can also take a beating.

Yoga is a great way to stretch. Poses like the Child’s Pose, Cat/Cow, Downward Dog and Cobbler’s Pose would work those areas. I’ve seen several good books, videos and websites offering yoga practices especially for gardeners. You can easily find these on the internet, or consult a physical therapist or athletic trainer at your local fitness center.

One resource by Bob Anderson, Stretching, offers a section on before-and-after gardening stretches. (ShelterPub.com)

Strength Building

gardening exercises

Everyone says gardening is good exercise, and it’s true, but you don’t want to start out picking up a 50 pound bag of rocks or even a heavy bag of soil or compost without some strength training. That’s a recipe for back strain, and could affect your ability to garden the rest of the season.

Be smart and prepare your body for the bending and lifting required for prepping a garden. You can do this by mimicking gardening movements with appropriate weights. My friend, blogger Erica Strauss, created seven exercises and an explanation of exactly how they prepare your body for specific gardening activities. You could pick and choose which ones you want to perform based on what you will be doing this spring. The exercises are simple and use only dumbbells. They can be done at home, in the garden or at the gym. It is definitely worth checking out Erica’s exercises at http://www.nwedible.com/2012/03/the-7-best-strength-exercises-for-gardeners.html.

One yoga position also offers great core strengthening aid, as well as providing overall upper body strength – the Plank. Anywhere from 15 seconds to 5 minutes of this position each day provides great benefits. It is one of the fundamental yoga poses. Consult a professional for instructions on how to do it correctly.

Beneficial Tools

GW_Claw_full

There is another way to help minimize aches and pains, too: using the right tools. Many of our Garden Weasel products are designed to help save work on your back. The long handles, ease of use and quality of our devices absorb a portion of your workload. Consider adding one of these helpful gizmos to your garden toolshed this spring! You can find more details about them on our website: www.GardenWeasel.com.

Tools List:

Cultivating Tool
The Garden Weasel
Cultivating, Loosening, Aerating and Weeding (CLAW) Tools: Weasel Garden Claw, Weasel Claw Pro, Garden Claw Red Super, Mini Claw Tall


Winter Gardening Chores

Gardening doesn’t end when the growing season does. I have a great checklist of winter gardening chores that keep me enthusiastic and involved in my garden even in the off-season.

Make Your Move

Prune for Dead Branches, Not GrowthNow is actually the ideal time to transplant or move plants, put in new bushes and bulbs, as well as divide perennial bulbs. If you do it now rather than waiting for spring, it’s almost like getting a whole extra year of growth. Roots will have time to get established and the plant will be ready to flourish in springtime. If you want to plant something you can enjoy through winter, investigate a wonderful new evergreen like firethorn (shiny green leaves year-round with orange berries in winter) or an arborvitae. This time of year is great for finding sales. If it is too late to plant, you can overwinter them in a pot with mulch; be sure to water them, too.

Prune for Dead Branches, Not Growth

Fall and winter are not the optimal time to prune for shape or growth – spring is best for that because it is the time when plants are ready to develop. Now is the time to look over your trees and bushes to get rid of dead branches so that insects don’t settle in, and so that come spring the plant will direct energy to new sprouts, not try to repair lifeless parts.

Eliminate Remaining Weeds

Think about it – spring is the time nature releases seeds to reproduce and multiply. The last thing you want to do is leave weeds in your lawn and garden over winter so that when spring arrives, they’re ready to proliferate your yard with loads more weeds! Getting the last of them out of gardens and lawns is a top-priority task.

Manage Mulch

Mulch serves as insulation for winter, so it still needs airflow. Survey your trees, shrubs and beds to make sure you’ve got them covered. Be sure to fluff up what is there with an iron rake to prevent compaction over winter. Then assess what areas need more. Don’t mulch too early, rodents will make their winter home in your mulch if you do.

Collect Cages, Trellises and Containers

Tomato cages and garden trellises should be cleaned, repaired and stored. Rinse out empty pots and dry before storing.

Hang Up the Hose

Leaving it hooked up can result in a broken spigot if trapped water freezes and expands. Mold and mildew can also develop inside a hose. An air compressor works great to dry out a hose before storing it away for the winter.

Invite Potted Plants Indoors

Spending a couple days in the garage before going in the house helps plants adjust from outdoors to indoors. Remember to remove bugs first.

Add Winter Interest

Winter gardening chores don’t have to be all work and no play. Choose a non-organic item to add visual interest for the winter, such as adding brightly colored paint to a wooden fence, lattice or arbor. Statues, brightly colored pots or outdoor art can also spruce up your garden for wintertime.

Clean and Store Garden Tools

While cleaning and repairing may not sound fun now, motivate yourself to do this chore by imagining pulling out shiny, freshly sharpened tools next spring. Even though we use them in the dirt, garden tools will last longer with regular cleaning and maintenance.

  • Clean off dirt and materials.
  • Remove rust – Rust is one of the most damaging things for your tools. Start with sandpaper or a wire brush and scrub. If that doesn’t remove the rust, use a chemical remover from your local home store, or try soaking in white vinegar.
  • Once you’ve removed the rust, now brush or wipe mineral oil on the metal parts to keep them nice over the winter.
  • Sand and repair wooden parts, too. Repaint painted surfaces, and apply linseed oil to wooden handles.
  • To sharpen, file edges in one direction away from you.

Evaluate Successes and Failures

I like to reflect on what worked well and what I’d like to do differently for next year and start planning those changes. That helps me get prepared and excited for spring. I consider how happy I was with the color schemes around my gardens; how well things bloomed and fared  what vegetables or herbs we enjoyed and new ones we’d like to try. I research new flowers that I’d like to grow and prepare to purchase and plant them. It’s also the time when I dream and draw out new designs for garden beds, and plan my budget for purchases. It’s even a good time to till new ground for areas I want to expand next spring.

Though winter is around the corner, there are many chores that can be done to keep our gardens going throughout the year.


Cleaning the Fall Lawn and Garden

Give your lawn and garden a Fall clean-up.

Think of it as spring cleaning in reverse. Fall cleaning is an important part of maintaining healthy lawns and gardens during the cold months ahead – so they are ready to bloom and flourish next spring.

Experts recommend getting in front of the cooler temperatures by working about six weeks before you expect the first freeze.

Now is an ideal time to seed with cool-season grasses such as fescue and rye. It gives these hardy grasses the chance to germinate and develop strong roots before the freezing temperatures arrive.

Get your soil ready with a good scraping tool (hmmm, wonder where you might get good ground-prep tools?), get the seed down, and water. A good thing about fall is that Mother Nature will usually handle most of your watering chores.

It is also a great time to apply fertilizer to your turf grasses – check with your local garden store for slow-release, all-natural fertilizer options. When you feed turf grass the proper nutrients, it can stay healthy by storing food in the form of carbohydrates over the winter months. That will translate into a thicker, lusher lawn in the spring.

While you’re out getting some exercise in the yard, go ahead and lay down a second application of a selective pre-emergent herbicide. (The first should have happened earlier in late winter or early spring. Right?) Your first application should have attacked the weed seeds that hit your lawn over the winter. This second application will take care of the rest of the weed seeds that surely came along over the summer.

After raking the leaves later this fall (a crucial step!), it wouldn’t hurt to lay down a post-emergent herbicide or spot-treat weeds with a treatment like glysophosphate. This will keep your root systems strong and make for a better-looking lawn in the spring.

And don’t forget your gardens! Before you can kick your feet up for the winter, there’s a little more work to be done:

First, clear out your old annuals before their weeds have a chance to drop. Cut back on the spent perennials that can create unwanted hiding spots for pests such as slugs and snails. You’ll prevent problem seeds from spreading.

Consider planting a fall cover crop to help with erosion, restore organics to the soils, balance nutrients and attract beneficial insects. Good choices are grasses like rye or legumes such as clover. Talk to your local garden store expert about the best options for your area.

If you have a compost bin, use it! If not, build a simple bin for fall leaves and cuttings. Add them as needed, cover them up and let winter work its magic, so you’ll have rich organic matter next spring.

Rake up and compost leaves around rose bushes, fruit trees and other plants susceptible to powdery mildew, pests and other diseases. While you’re at it, get rid of any diseased tomato plants, potato or squash foliage. Don’t compost this material though – just bag and dispose of it.

Now is a great time to remove any dead branches from trees or bushes. This is not pruning time, just focus on getting rid of the dead branches.

Mulch your garden with chopped-up leaves and grass clippings – and plant those spring bulbs you’ve been meaning to as well.

If you’re really ambitious, you might as well clean up all those tool blades. Simple vegetable oil does the trick well, believe it or not.

And don’t sweat the dried flowers, ornamental grasses or seed heads that look good. They provide a nice bit of food that the birds will enjoy.

Once you get your lawn and garden cleaned up, relax! You’ve earned it. As we all know, the spring will be once again upon us before you know it, so now is the time to kick back.


Natural & Organic Weed Control

Not sure about all of you, but in my gardens, flower beds, and my lawn, the annual war against pesky weeds is now in full swing. Making it a grand time for a blog post that covers different methods of engaging these invasive little enemies.

There are, generally speaking, two strategic battle plans to consider when it comes to handling weeds.

One utilizes tools and a more manual process; the other is based on applications of some sort. Our recommendation, for many reasons, is to use natural or organic substances when the latter means is required.

Effective Tools for Weed Control

Hand-to-hand combat with our nutrient-stealing squatters will require an arsenal of effective tools to manage the varying degrees of “weediness” you will encounter. Thankfully, this is where we are uniquely qualified to offer proven, battle-tested solutions! After all, we have been offering tools to do just that for nearly 40 years!

Make Time!

Before delving into the armory, an important note: Fighting weeds requires persistence and consistency. During peak growth, weeds can quickly take over and become tough to manage. So set aside an amount of time that works with your schedule – whether it be 15 or 30 minutes a day, or a dedicated hour a few days a week. This will help you stay on top of them and keep them from taking over your space. Keeping a schedule helps you ensure your plants get all of the room – as well as all of the water and nutrients – they need to stay healthy and strong.

The Trowel & You

For small raised beds and containers, getting a larger tool to work these areas may not be feasible. Your best bet here is to weed by hand, plucking small weeds by the root, and using a small trowel if necessary to dig up more established root systems. If you own the detachable short plastic handle for our Original Garden Weasel, this would be a valuable asset in  smaller spaces like this, bringing weeds and root systems to the surface.

WeedPopper Step & Twist

For work in your lawns, tools like the WeedPopper Step & Twist let you move around the yard with little bending or kneeling, grabbing weeds by the root with the added bonus of aerating your yard at the same time.

The Original Garden Weasel

In your gardens and beds, cultivation can be a very effective tactic for small weeds. Breaking up the soil provides easy access to weeds and their entire root. You can then remove them easily by hand or just leave them to wither in the sun. This is where the scissor-like action of the Original Garden Weasel’s bladed wheels do much of the work on your behalf.

Garden Claw

Deeper, established weeds will require something a bit more intense. This is where our  Garden Claw is called to arms and shines brightly. A tool with many uses, weeding is a personal favorite of mine when it comes to the Claw.  Able to go deep and turn up larger clumps, roots and all, this tool is the go-to weapon of choice for the weeds that don’t give in to the WeedPopper or Garden Weasel. In fact, if you can’t get it with the Garden Claw, you better break out the shovel!

Natural & Organic Applications for Weed Control

Attacking weeds sometimes requires an alternative approach. As mentioned above, we lean toward natural, or organic means when applications are the right answer.

Corn Gluten Meal

Corn Gluten Meal is a natural weed and feed fertilizer. Getting it down prior to weed germination is the key.  Once it’s down, it should help prevent roots from forming, acting as a pre-emergent – while also playing the role of fertilizer.

Vinegar

Another popular – and effective – “green” herbicide can come right out of the kitchen. Vinegar, mixed with a few ingredients, can be used as as a spray for spot removal. It’s also perfect for our WeedBall applicator when windy conditions, or you want straight lines… or you are just cleaning up a border or edge. An ideal formula would look somethign like this:

1 gallon of 10% (100 grain) vinegar
Add 1 ounce orange oil or d-limonene
1 teaspoon liquid soap or other surfactant
(No need to add water)

Shake well – and note – this tends to work better on warm to hot days.

AG Crabgrass Killer

In more southern zones, it’s tough to beat our Garden Weasel AG Crabgrass Killer for a product that is simple, safe, and effective against crabgrass, chickweed, clover, and many more. Available in both  consumer and industrial quantities, this all-natural post-emergent alternative to chemical herbicides can simply be sprinkled on without harming St. Augustine, Bahia, Common Bermuda and Centipede grass.

Weed Suppressing Plants

One of the best, most unique ideas I have found for weed control is this: plant perennials that actually suppress weeds! These particular plants help do some of the heavy lifting for you, discouraging weed growth:

  • ‘Emerald Blue’ moss phlox (Phlox subulata)
  • ‘Thriller’ lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis)
  • ‘Walker’s Low’ Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii)
  • ‘Golden Fleece’ Dwarf (Solidago sphacelata)
  • ‘Albiflorus’ Creeping Thyme (Thymus praecox)
  • ‘Herman’s Pride’ False Lamium (Lamiastrum galeobdolon)
  • ‘Majestic’ Lilyturf (Liriope)

Mulch & Barriers

Using mulch creates a barrier that deprives weeds of the chlorophyll-producing light they need to take over your garden.  Plus it looks nice and adds another layer of defense to your weed-fighting strategy.  Organic mulch, synthetic mulches, black poly film, and even newspaper can work for barrier material.

There are always additional tactics to employ in the ongoing battle to maintain weed-free lawns, gardens, and flower beds. A combination of the strategies above can give you a a good start to winning the war on weeds.

What are YOU doing to combat pesky unwanted growth in your lawns, gardens & flower beds? Let us know in the comments below, or visit our Facebook page and post your ideas there. We’d love to hear from you!


How to Plant and Grow Roses

rose garden, planting roses, garden weasel A friend told me recently I needed to “stop and smell the roses.” I knew he meant “slow down and enjoy life,” but it occurred to me that I would actually like to plant some roses in my garden TO smell.

Roses can be intimidating. Like me, you may have the impression that they are territory only for master gardeners. But au contraire. Roses are tough and hardy. Even amateur horticulturalists can grow these beautiful flowers and still have time to stop and smell them.

A Little Pre-Planting Homework

Be brave and don’t be afraid to plant roses. But before you go out and buy some, a little study will go a long way. Roses are a bit like people. Each kind is different and needs a different environment to thrive. So the two pieces of research to do in advance are about what and where.

What – First, if you are dreaming of growing the kinds of perfect roses you find in the store, you’ll need to lower your standards. There is a reason those cost a dollar a rose. Open your mind to all the possibilities of color, smell, full-grown size, type of bloom (single, double, ruffled, miniature, etc.), and disease resistance. There are 150 species and thousands of varieties of shrub, tree and climbing roses. The best way to narrow the field of what to plant is to consult your local extension office or nursery. They can give you a well-researched list of roses that grow well in your climate zone.

Then purchase good roses to increase your odds of success. Buying roses from a garden center, nursery or mail order assures a quality start. The American Rose Society is a great online resource and has a helpful rating system; they recommend buying top grade/number 1 roses with three canes and a fully developed root system.

Where – Choosing the best location also increases your odds of success. But as Grandma Weasel always taught me: don’t be afraid to move something if it’s not doing well where you planted it the first time.

Roses need 5 basic things: sunlight, soil, water, space and food. Assess your desired spot for these factors:

Sunlight is essential to those beautiful blooms. Make sure the spot you want to place your roses has a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight. Morning light is optimal. Number of petals is a consideration here: the higher the number of petals in the bloom the greater then need for sun.

Soil is also key. The ideal soil is loam (equal mixture of sand, silt and clay), so figure out what type of soil you have and provide the needed amendments. Your garden center can easily help with this. Basically, roses need lots of organic material and the right pH level (slightly acidic). The pH level affects how the plant absorbs nutrients. Soil should also be well drained because water is vital. They don’t do well with standing water around their roots. As you prepare the soil, the Garden Weasel is great for loosening it up. The Garden Claw is also great for breaking up dirt and allowing air to circulate.

Space allows room to grow. All roses need good air flow and wind should be minimized. A good rule of thumb is to allow as much space for the width of the fully grown plant as it will be tall.

 A Time to Plant

Once you have your spot and roses picked out, and your soil ready to go, planting is a breeze! Garden Glide is a helpful tool that eases the job of moving bags and plantings to their spot.

Ideally your hole for the amended soil should be about 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. Place your amended loamy soil in the bottom, tossing in a handful of bone meal to help strengthen the root system. At about 12” from the top, form a cone with the soil. Place the roots over the cone.

You will observe the roots and canes look crooked and gnarled, a bit of a mirror image. Find a knob between them. This is the “bud union” and it is your guide to the planting depth. It should be about 2 inches below ground level. Alternate water and soil as you fill the hole.

Place a couple inches of mulch on top of the soil. This helps conserve water and minimize weeds.

Tending Means Noticing

I always pictured tending roses as a complicated matter, but really it just means noticing what they need. So again, like people or pets, they just need a little attention. I like this adage as a guide: feed a little, water a lot.

Water – Don’t let soil dry out. Deep soaking with 4-5 gallons of water two times a week is better than a light watering every day. Deep soaking can be done with a slow soaking hose or a deep soaking tool that delivers the water straight to the roots.

Feed – Fertilize with a slow-release product containing nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium in the spring, midsummer and fall. If your roses aren’t blooming well, add some soluble nitrogen between feedings for a boost.

Prune – Roses don’t have to be pruned often. The purpose of pruning is to get rid of damage and to shape. Once a year before spring is plenty. Doing it right is easy – slice at a 45 degree angle, ¼-1/2” from the leaf node.

Also, deal with insects and disease promptly. Your extension office and nursery can help you figure out what spots, growths or colors mean and how to treat them.

Tools Used: Garden Weasel, Garden Claw, Garden Glide


Heirloom Tomatoes

We weasels don’t have any family heirlooms. Nothing gets passed down except our pointy noses and passion for gardening. You’d think with all the digging we do that one of my ancestors would have discovered a buried treasure. But, alas, no. Maybe that is why I am so intrigued by Heirloom Tomatoes.

What are Heirloom Tomatoes?

Many tomatoes found at grocery and garden stores today are hybrids. This means they are commercially grown with controlled pollination to retain or introduce desired traits – like thick skin or disease resistance.

Heirloom Tomatoes are unique, pure-bred tomatoes that are considered so good their seeds are preserved and passed down like a family inheritance. They’re the varieties our grandparents ate many years ago. In the past they were often rare and grown by a particular family. Today the term encompasses tomatoes with unique characteristics or that have been around for 50 years. Now more than 3,000 varieties exist in the U.S. and 10,000 in the world.

Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder

To enjoy Heirlooms you have to learn to see beauty in uniqueness. Hybrids are grown to be uniform red orbs of perfection. Not so with Heirlooms. No two heirloom tomatoes are alike; their shapes vary greatly. I’ve seen a heart-shaped tomato and many that look rather bulbous. They are also known to crack because their skin is not grown to be thick to bear weight in transportation like many hybrids.

Don’t Judge a Tomato by Its Cover

Bite into an heirloom and you will discover why their appearance doesn’t matter. The taste of an heirloom is always robust and flavorful. The color actually tells you a lot about the tomato. Dark means acidic, light means less acidic. Red equates to sweetness. Green means tart. Yellow and orange are milder. Purple and black are bold and rich.

The book 100 Heirloom Tomatoes for the American Garden by Carolyn J. Male wonderfully illustrates and describes this great garden item.

Plant for the Plate

When deciding what to plant, I like to visualize my plate. Heirlooms come in a range of beautiful colors from yellows to reds to purples and everything in between. And, because they taste so great, they can be cut and served as their own beautiful and delicious dish. So I like imagine what colors would look good on a plate served together and make my selections about what to grow from there.

Or, maybe you would prefer to choose them by name. Unique vegetables deserve unique names and heirlooms have them: German Giant, Box Car Willie, Cherokee Chocolate, Pink Ping Pong, Orange Strawberry, Green Zebra, to name a few. One of the most common heirloom tomatoes is the beefsteak variety and they have some great names, too: Big Ben, Big Rainbow, Watermelon, Italian Sweet.

The Heirloom Tomato Cookbook by Mimi Luebbermann has 50 great recipes to try once your crop comes in.

Where to Get Them

You have to be careful when buying tomato seeds or plants from your local nursery. Many plants sold are hybrids, so you will want to make sure you check with the horticulturalist to make sure what you are buying is truly an heirloom variety.

There are also some great online sources. I like www.tomatofest.com. They sell organic heirloom tomato seeds from all around the world.

Tips for Successful Growing

As heirlooms in your home require limited but special care, so do heirloom tomatoes. They will flourish if grown in 18-24” of fluffy, fertile soil with plenty of good quality mulch. I use my Garden Claw to cultivate the soil because tomato plants are water drinkers and well cultivated soil absorbs water instead of letting it run off.

Tomatoes need lots of sun. Do prune old leaves and unproductive stems to maximize growth.

Heirlooms may not produce as much as hybrids, nor as consistently, so I also plant hybrids in my garden as well to ensure I have plenty of tomatoes.

Save the Seeds

Another unique thing about Heirloom Tomatoes is their seeds. Hybrid seeds are sometimes sterile, or do not reproduce the same tomatoes if saved and replanted. But Heirloom Tomato seeds can be saved and used to grow the same tomatoes again next year.

When you find the tomato you’d like to pass on in your family, here’s how you can save the seeds and create your family’s culinary heirloom:

  • Choose a good, ripe tomato.
  • Cut it and squeeze the seeds into a cup.
  • Put a couple inches of water over the seeds and set aside for 2-3 days.
  • When white mold begins to grow, dispose of any floating seeds. Rinse the remaining seeds and place on a paper plate in a single layer.
  • Set aside to dry completely for several days.
  • Place in a sealed container and label it.
  • Keep in a cool dry place for up to 10 years.

Tools used: Garden Claw


Raised Bed Gardening

raised bed vegetable gardeningRaised beds are one of my favorite ways to garden. They can bring out the artist, the chef or the mathematician in us. (Yes, even weasels like to be creative!) I love knowing that the work I put into creating the best soil possible will help ensure success. Now is a great time to create the ideal design and concoct the perfect soil for your raised bed garden.

Construction and Design Inspiration

The great thing about a raised bed is that you can be as structured or as imaginative as you like. Either way, you can create beautiful geometric designs with a range of shapes from simple squares and rectangles to more elaborate L-shaped beds, diamonds, octagons (or any other –agon).

If you’re like me and enjoy dreaming up something new for your garden, you are probably already doodling designs for the spot you’ve picked out. Remember doing dot-to-dot pictures as a kid? Creating a raised bed is like bringing a dot-to-dot picture to life in your garden.

Or if you are like many of my weasel friends who prefer a practical approach, there are many kits available. They range in price depending on size and material, and can be found at your local do-it-yourself centers or online. I’ve even seen plans to build a circular bed!

A simple square is easy to construct yourself at any size or height. You can find specific guidelines for size and depth, or you can build to suit your need. An average size is 4’x4’ with a minimum depth of 6” of soil. Cedar wood is best for the walls because of its rot resistant qualities, but kits also come in durable composite and plastic. The Garden Weasel Edger is a great tool to mark out the bed.

Creating the Ideal Soil

The key to successful raised bed gardening is soil preparation. This is where the cook in me gets excited! Here’s my recipe for soil that works great for vegetables and herbs. Like in the kitchen, this recipe can be followed to a tee, or combined with your own experience and finessed. I’d love you to share your favorite soil ingredients with me here!

garden weasel garden glideThe Garden Glide is a helpful tool to move bags easily to your spot, and the Garden Claw would be useful for mixing the soil in the bed. It is easiest to blend the ingredients in a large container first, then pour them into the beds.

Topsoil – Topsoil is the staple, like flour in a cake. Whatever you do, don’t scrimp on this ingredient. Good quality topsoil is slightly more expensive than the cheaper stuff, but worth it. Poor quality topsoil often contains weeds and herbicides. You can visually inspect the soil and avoid purchasing it if there are signs of salt crusting on surface, the soil is hard and doesn’t crumble easily in your fingers, if it feels gritty (indicates sandy) or sticky (indicates clay), and color is light or white (contains salt or lime).

Compost – Everyone has their favorite, and mine is Cotton Burr. It’s loaded with nutrients and a wide range of micro-organisms so important to a sustainable organic environment. This compost is made from cotton plants. As cotton grows, it absorbs nutrients that end up in pods called “bolls” or “burrs” that are not used and end up as “trash” that has become garden “treasure.” It has twice the nutrient value as manure composts but with no e-coli issues.

Vermiculite – This ingredient helps seeds germinate, stimulates root growth, and helps plant anchorage and nutrient intake. It also aids in watering. But since you are creating the ideal soil rather than combatting a poor soil, you do not have to use as much. I just sprinkle it in, like adding salt to a recipe.

Worm Castings – This is my secret super ingredient. Worm castings are a concentrated natural fertilizer that won’t burn your plants. They contain excellent soluble mineral content, thus making vegetables and herbs flourish. This is the most expensive ingredient on my list so I add it last, just before planting or seeding, only applying it to the area where roots will be growing rather than adding it to the whole soil mixture.

Tools: Garden Weasel Edger, Super Garden Claw, Garden glide


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