Is fertilizer a good feast for your lawn? Yes and no. Just like with our own food intake, too much, too little, the wrong combination of stuff, quality and timing all affect how healthy we are, so it goes with fertilizing our lawns. Let’s look at a few basic things to consider as you decide when and how you’ll feed your hungry lawn this season.
What is Fertilizer?
It helps to clarify that, technically, fertilizer isn’t actually “food” for your grass. If you remember from biology class in school, plants use the photosynthesis process to make their own food with a combination of sunlight, air and water. That’s the work that goes on primarily above the ground in the leaves. Underneath the ground, the soil provides nutrients and minerals to the root system, but often the soil gets depleted or needs supplements. So maybe that’s a good way to look at fertilizer – more like taking vitamins and mineral supplements. However, these elements are vital for the plants to grow so in that way, fertilizer is like food.
Essential Ingredients – The 17 essential elements that plants and lawns need are divided into two categories: macro- and micro-nutrients. Three of the elements (carbon, hydrogen and oxygen) are taken from air and water. Fertilizer can provide many of the remaining must-have elements that roots utilize from the soil.
The three primary ingredients of fertilizer are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium/potash (K). On every bag of fertilizer you’ll see those initials in that order – NPK – and numbers associated with it. This is how the industry communicates what percentage by weight of each ingredient is in what you buy. The numbers are not a ratio and are not how many pounds of that ingredient are in the bag. It is percentage by weight: if the bag weighs 25 lbs and first number on the bag (N) is 10, then the bag contains 2.5lbs of Nitrogen (not 10 lbs).
The micro-nutrients are often called “trace elements” and every fertilizer varies in what micro-nutrients are included. Check the ingredients for these, such as calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, chlorine, copper, manganese, zinc, molybdenum, and boron.
Types and Options – There are two types of fertilizer available: organic and commercial.
Organic fertilizers come in options that are naturally-occurring (manure, worm castings and pea) or processed (compost, blood meal, bone meal).
Commercial fertilizers come in organic or inorganic material of natural or synthetic origin (lime, gypsum, manipulated animal and vegetable manures).
Biofertilizers (Phospho, Rhizo, Vermi compost) are also an emerging, new product to consider.
Be aware of the impact of your decision about which one to use. Some states have banned the use of phosphorus (P) and limited nitrogen (N) because of environmental concerns. Yet organic fertilizers are harder to measure and balance what nutrients you’re adding. Don’t take the decision about which one to choose lightly – do your research and weigh the pros and cons.
Why Fertilize?
Because your soil needs it - Before fertilizing, it is important to know your soil composition so that you aren’t adding chemicals unnecessarily. Test your soil so you know what you’re working with.
To offer a “balanced diet” – Your soil test will show what nutrients are lacking and fertilizer is one way you can put them back in.
For a green lawn – Yellowing, slow-growing lawns may benefit from more nitrogen, which helps lawns be green and grow fast. Nitrogen is the only nutrient that turf grass needs regularly. However, if you apply it too often, the root growth will be inhibited which will lead to other problems.
To promote grass root growth – Slow-release fertilizers do the best job of helping roots grow. Slow release fertilizers release nutrients gradually while fast release fertilizers make them available all at once. Fast release fertilizers can be cheaper, but in general they are not the best option for long-term benefit because they require more water to prevent burning, and a lot of the mineral content can be lost and not utilized by the roots. If you concentrate on building a good root system for you lawn’s grass roots, you will not need to fertilize as frequently. This includes practices such as optimal mowing height (longer than you’d expect), good irrigation (water deep, not frequent and shallow), maintain correct soil pH.
To help young grass get started – New grass seeds require a different combination of NPK than established lawns, so be sure to purchase “starter” fertilizer, or organic, slow-release fertilizer. Avoid fertilizers with weed preventer in them.
When to Fertilize?
Fertilizing at the right time is critical to lawn growth and health, as well as to being environmentally responsible. If your soil testing shows fertilizing is needed, the decision about when is dependent on what kind of grass you grow. In general, cold season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, fescues) need to be fertilized in the fall and energy stored in the roots over winter will provide everything grass needs for spring. Warm season grasses (Zoysia, Bermuda) need to be fertilized before spring rains.
How to Fertilize?
The key is even application. Never apply fertilizer by hand. It will distribute unevenly and it will be obvious soon after because your lawn will be greener in some spots and may burn in others.
For dry fertilizer, use a hand-held or push-type distributor that is designed to apply fertilizer evenly and in specified amounts. Check the bag for instructions about how much you need and do not over apply. Too much fertilizer is not a good thing. Be intentional about your pattern, starting at the ends or edges of the lawn and making your way in. Walk at a normal walking pace and try to keep the same rhythm throughout.
Liquid fertilizers can be applied with water hose applicator. Start at one corner of the lawn and walk backwards as you spray in smooth, even strokes.
When finished, be sure to clean out your applicator and wipe up any overspray or excess.
Well there won’t be any test for you to take over this “Fertilizer 101” material, but the true test will come when you see the results on your greener, better-growing lawn soon!
In the best of times, weeds are a landscape menace. But if weeds are allowed to gain the upper hand in the spring, you’re in for a long year of battling the noxious, unwanted “guest.”
Throughout the year, take steps to care for your lawn according to the season and grass type. Proper watering, fertilizing, and mowing will go a long way toward strengthening your lawn.
Mulch serves as insulation for winter, so it still needs airflow. Survey your trees, shrubs and beds to make sure you’ve got them covered. Be sure to fluff up what is there with an iron rake to prevent compaction over winter. Then assess what areas need more. Don’t mulch too early, rodents will make their winter home in your mulch if you do.
Hang Up the Hose
Invite Potted Plants Indoors
With the cold winter temperatures starting to close in, one of the easiest and cheapest ways to keep your lawn and garden healthy is by mulching. Applying mulch in the next few weeks will cut down on water loss in the soil, suppress weed growth and protect your plants from extreme temperatures.
As for weed control, you can cut weeding time by nearly 66% with mulch! First, make sure the mulch you are using is weed-free. All your good intentions can go for naught with one application of weed-infested mulch. That results in more weeds being introduced to your plantings than the mulch can control.
According to recent studies, mulched-up leaves are great for your lawn. Just mulch all your leaves with your lawnmower and feed your yard and gardens the results. You’ll save work, time and your aching back – while improving your soil and adding valuable nutrients.
Lawns take a beating during summer. The longer days, the heat, and the increased use and activity all make it difficult for grass to thrive. Ironically on the flip side, shade can be even more damaging as a lack of sunlight prevents growth and increases moisture which promotes moss. Trees and bushes that create the shade have large root systems that also steal water so there is less for the grass roots.
varieties simply grow better in cooler weather – daytime temperatures between 60 and 90 degrees is ideal. Watering is easier in lower temperatures. And, herbicides contained in spring fertilizers can harm or inhibit seed germination. By seeding your lawn in the fall, you give it plenty of time to get established and strong so that come the spring growing season, it will be ready to flourish with care.
I always thought “overseeding” mean putting more seed than necessary on the lawn to increase your chances of growth…but alas, I humbly discovered it actually means “sowing seed over existing grass!” That also means that before you overseed, you must determine that the existing grass you have is worth keeping. Experts recommend a 50% benchmark: if that much of your existing grass is healthy and plentiful, then overseed. If you have less than 50% of your lawn, then you need to scrap it and start over.
over stress the importance of proper watering. You can go to all the work and expense of preparing the soil, aerating, overseeding and fertilizing, and then blow it by not watering enough. Here’s why it is so essential: the water must get down to the soil beneath the seeds in order to draw the roots down to the water. If water remains on the surface, the roots don’t grow deep enough to create strong grass.
Just because it’s nearly the end of summer doesn’t mean your gardens can’t still bloom into the fall. In fact, many plants actually thrive in colder weather. You can take advantage of more rain than summer, fewer insects and no worries about plants bolting to seed. Not to mention the fact that it’s more enjoyable to work in the garden without the oppressive heat of August.
in some slow-acting organic fertilizer as you loosen the soil. Have your planting layout done before you add the compost, so you add it where the plants grow – not on the paths. Remember, if you use manure, let it compost at least six months, as fresh manure compost can burn plant roots and pose a health risk. Rake the soil to create furrows that will catch and retain moisture
Be ready for winter. If you will be using frost protection, such as a cold frame or hoop cover, get the structures in place so they are where you need them and won’t hurt the plants and their growing roots.
people think of planting bulbs for spring. But in late August or early September, you can get good, cut-rate deals on flowers as well. Here are some of your best bets from now until the first frost of the year: chrysanthemums, pansies, asters and irises. Crocus and tulip bulbs are great to plant once the ground is about 50 degrees or so. (Plant with the bulbs pointing up!)
have to mean the end of beautiful blooms. These four tips can help you extend enjoyment of your home’s horticultural highlights.
This process is called “deadheading” and it also helps annuals continue to flourish because it interrupts the seed reproduction process. If the flower is removed before the seed drops from the plant, it will produce another flower. Deadheading is also recommended to do weekly. Simply pull down gently on the spent flower until it pops off. Some annuals will actually die if the dead blooms are not removed. Perennials benefit from deadheading, too.
Record temperatures have kept homeowners indoors this summer sweating out the sweltering heat. From the usual hotspots of Arizona all the way up to Minnesota and on toward the Great Lakes, “Heat” has been a four-letter word. And in most of the country, that heat has also been accompanied by a startling lack of moisture. In other words, in 2012 most of us are facing a drought.
Simple garden mulch can be a miracle worker in the hottest climates. It contains nutrients that your plants can use, and it retains water like a champion. Mulch is a low-tech, natural resource that blows away all the timers, sprinklers and irrigation systems you’ll find on the market. It is nature’s drip feeder of moisture to right where your plants need it. Mulch also helps you maximize the water-absorbing potential of your yard. In addition, certain mulch can also repel bugs and have a positive impact on your soil’s pH balance. But don’t overdo it! The dreaded “mulch volcano” around plants can actually suffocate roots. Just spread a light amount of mulch near the plant and extend the pile out several feet to either side. This will position the mulch over the roots without harming the plant – and it will block the sun, to reduce weeds and lower ground temperatures to lock in moisture.
can lead to fungus growth. Flooded soil kills the fine hairs of the root system and can compact the soil making it hard for the roots to absorb future waterings. What makes this even more difficult is that it’s easy to interpret the signs of overwatering as plant dehydration. Brown spots on leaves and wilting plants don’t always mean it’s time for more water. Less frequent, intense soakings reach deep into the soil, beyond the reach of evaporation but not beyond the reach of your plant’s roots. After the drought passes – and it will! – treat your lawn to an overwatering. Once or twice a year, water twice as long as normal to help leach the salts out of your plants’ roots.
Instead, put away the mower and hedge trimmers, pour yourself a nice glass of lemonade and take a load off until the temperatures cool and the rains fall once again!
