Category Archives: Flower Beds

Create Drama in Your Garden: Plant Summer Bulbs Now

Summer blooming flower BulbsSpring bulb flowers like tulips, daffodils and crocuses seem to steal all the limelight when it comes to bulbs, probably because their glorious appearance is such a welcome herald of warm weather and color after the cold climate and winter starkness.

Now that spring is in full throttle, it is time to consider planting summer bulbs that add their own unique beauty and drama to gardens in the summer. Let’s shine a bit of the spotlight on these more tender but equally amazing summer bulb flowers and foliage.

Casting Call: Spectacular Summer Color

Bulb flowers are just like Hans Christian Anderson’s Ugly Duckling. They start out as dreadful-looking, potato-like gray knobs that emerge to become some of the most beautiful, graceful stars of a garden “theater.” Make a scene with the huge blooms and bursts of almost every color in the rainbow offered by summer bulb flowers. Some of these beauties to audition for your “cast of characters” include:

Dahlias

Dahlias – These flowers receive top billing in my book. Their blooms are magnificent and varied; some look like luxurious carnations while others are more pointy and delicate. They come in many rich colors except blue: mixed, orange, pink, purple, red, white and yellow. Best of all, they grow in many sizes, ranging from petite pom-pom varieties to huge dinner plate-size blooms.

Gladiolas – The name “gladiolus” means “little sword” for itsGladiolas sword-like leaves, and these color-filled stalks provide tall lines of color in your landscape. They also come in almost every color except blue. With more than 100 varieties, you can find them in all sizes, from miniatures (flowers 2 ½”) to giants (flowers 5 ½”). They make terrific cut flowers.

Cannas

Cannas – The giant leaves of the canna flower are as beautiful as the blooms. The leaf foliage grows in green, bronze or purple. The Greek word “canna” means “reed” and describes the stem rising up out of the center of the foliage and bearing the large, ruffled flowers, which are most commonly seen in deep red but can also grow in pink, orange, yellow or white.

Crocosmia – Also known by its common name, MontbretiaCrocosmia – Also known by its common name, Montbretia, this summer plant grows sprays of grass-like stems with small dabbles of orange or red impressionist painter-like flowers atop. The plant grows so vigorously in all conditions it is considered a weed to some.

Tuberous BegoniasTuberous Begonias – This glamorous bulb is one of the few summer bulbs that grow well in shade. It produces rose-like flowers in many colors (white, pink, rose, red, orange or yellow) and sizes (from 3” to the size of a salad plate). These begonias offer a variety of flower types, from single and double flowered to frilly or plain petals.

CaladiumFoliage – There are also some beautiful foliage options to include such as elephant ears and caladium. These two large-leafed plants in particular offer amazing texture and color options.

Setting the Stage: Selecting and Planting Summer Bulbs

Growing bulbs is relatively easy. Each type of flower has different planting and care needs so be sure to read the packaging and follow instructions for each type of bulb you purchase.

Bulb Selection – Select bulbs that are firm to touch and show no signs of mold or damage. The bigger the bulb, the bigger the bloom. You also want bulbs that are as fresh as possible.

When to Plant – Timing depends on your climate zone. Mild climates can plant bulbs in early spring while colder zones require planting in late spring or early summer.

Where to Plant – Generally speaking, summer bulb flowers love warm soil and lots of sun, though there are some exceptions (like tuberous begonias, for example). Be sure to note the particular needs of the flower you select.

Prepare the Soil – Different bulbs have different soil requirements, so check the instructions. Bulbs are prone to rotting so well-drained soil is important; amending your soil with organic matter can improve drainage. Use your Garden Weasel to cultivate the soil so it is loose and inviting to your bulbs. This is important for the roots to spread and get well established.

shutterstock_2077446

How to Plant –You can plant individual bulbs in their own holes, or create a trench for several bulbs. It is nice to plant bulb flowers in groups. Ideally, dig the hole larger than what you need and fill with loose dirt. The size of the bulb tells you how deep to plant the bulb: it should be two to three times the diameter of the bulb. Place the bulb in the hole, making sure the roots are facing downward and the growing point faces up. Cover with dirt, then pat it down. Bulbs have their own food supply but to maximize performance you can add high-phosphorus bulb food under the roots, and later when the plant starts to grow, fertilize with all-purpose fertilizer. There are special planting tips for each type of flower so do consult the instructions on this, too.

Take a Bow

When mid-summer comes and your gorgeous flowers grace the garden, bring some friends over for the colorful flower show – and enjoy the applause they’re sure to receive!


10 Ways to Protect Your Garden Against April’s Cold Snaps

shutterstock_113002441“April showers” may be more famous than “April cold snaps” because of a cute garden rhyme that gets passed down from generation to generation, but if we don’t fend off the frost and freezes that come with those showers, there won’t be any May flowers! The good news is there are some simple things you can do to protect your garden.

1. Plant smart.

Even though we live in a certain climate, our own landscapes have distinct micro-climates  Amazingly, even one degree in temperature can make a huge difference, and where you place your plants can truly affect how well they survive temperature drops. Buildings retain warmth so planting near walls, buildings, trees or other heat-retaining structures can emit just enough warmth to make a difference. Though tricky, wind is also something to consider. In the right circumstances it can be a positive force to fight frost because it can keep it from settling on leaves. Cold air sinks, so avoid planting in low areas. It’s also smart to plant foliage that is hardy for your zone. Some options known for their cold-hardiness include crocus, narcissus, pansies and tulip flowers or vegetables like broccoli, carrots, lettuce and peas.

2. Be prepared.

shutterstock_20357860There is a difference between a frost and a freeze, and for the most part it doesn’t matter which one happens, what does matter is how low the temperature gets and for what length of time. Watch the weather report and listen for temperatures below freezing (32F). A “light” frost/freeze means temperatures of about 28F for just a few hours. A “moderate” freeze or “killing” frost means 25-28F for several hours. Below 25F for several hours is “severe.” Have cold-fighting tools on hand and be ready to use them: old blankets, burlap, newspapers, mulch (straw or old leaves), large tubs and old pots, old milk jugs, cloches (jars to set over plants), etc.

3. Prioritize tender plants.

Rather than try to protect your entire garden, prioritize the tender plants that are most vulnerable to cold snaps. If a severe freeze is projected, then more action can be taken to protect other plants, such as wrapping fruit tree trunks with burlap or placing mulch at the base of evergreen trees to keep soil free from frost.

4. Water before freeze.

It may sound crazy to water before a freeze, but actually water insulates plants, it strengthens them to withstand cold damage, and moist soil stays warmer than dry soil. Water the roots (not leaves) a day before the forecasted freeze, and do it well before sunset so the plants have time to absorb it before the cold comes.

5. Cover with cloth.

Soil loses its warmth over time, so the idea behind covering plants is to create a space to contain the warmth for the duration of a cold snap, like a mini-greenhouse. Avoid using plastic, and make sure the cloth doesn’t touch the foliage if possible by using wire or stakes. (If you can’t prevent touching, it’s still better to cover than not.) The cloth can be an old blanket, flannel or fleece material, sheets, towels or burlap. It should touch the ground securely so it won’t flap up. Cover the plants before the sun sets so the warmth has time to establish. If rain is projected, then you can use plastic to cover and protect the cloth.

6. Warm with water jugs.

You can also prolong or increase warmth under the cover by putting warm water in old milk jugs and placing them in with the plants before you secure cover to the ground.

7. Creatively protect.

Other options for protecting plants include using cardboard boxes, old or unused pots turned upside down, bubble wrap to insulate hanging plants, whatever you have on hand. I’ve heard of fruit tree growers using Christmas tree lights to help keep blooms from getting too cold. Some place electric fans to blow on plants. Don’t “throw in the towel” because you think a freeze it going to kill your crop, instead, use it to cover something and know that even that can make a difference.

8. Uncover on time.

Once the frost has cleared, remove the covers and protection. If it sticks around for a while, be sure to give your plants some time in the sun if they are covered completely. And don’t remove covers too soon either because direct morning sun can cause plants to de-frost too quickly.

9. Bring potted plants indoors.

These are particularly vulnerable to cold because their roots are more exposed being in a pot than being in the ground. Root damage will stunt growth. If your pots are too big to move, wrap the pots with blankets to insulate them, and cover the plantings as best you can. If you have hanging plants, you can either bring them inside or lay them on the ground and cover them there.

shutterstock_109459382

10. Feed and fertilize (but not too much).

Another thing you can do before a frost to help your garden and landscape survive is to fertilize to make sure the plants have nutrients available and are thriving, but be careful not to over fertilize which can damage and weaken plants.

April snaps don’t have to mean May mishaps. These 10 tips can empower you to fight the frost and freeze so that April showers bring your May flowers, and much harvest throughout the growing season.

 


Pruning – What, When, Where and How

pruning-rosesPruning is not just for expert rose tenders or expensive tree trimmers. Electric hedge equipment makes bushes temporarily look nice and neat, but “trimming the bushes” is actually a lot more work than pruning, and has much less pleasing long-term results.

I used to only be a trimmer. Remembering the best time to do it was hard so whenever my shrubs started to look untidy, I just buzzed off the tops. For a little while they looked good, but I had to do it often and then clean up the huge mess. It was a chore. After several years I began to wonder why they’d gotten so top heavy, woody at the base and rather ugly to look at.

Since then I’ve learned a lot about what it really means to prune. Now I’m a pruner. It is little more complicated than a simple shave, but with some understanding of the fundamentals, anyone can prune once or twice a year and be pleased with the results.

What


shutterstock_29329072Pruning is NOT
— It might help us first to clarify what we mean by “pruning.” Let me start by talking about what pruning is NOT.

Pruning is not shearing. (what I was doing: randomly cutting off the ends of branches)
Pruning is not just shaping. (focusing on the superficial look of the plant)
Pruning is not like giving your plant a “hair cut” and it does not involve the use of hedge trimmers or chain saw.

Pruning IS – Pruning is part of maintenance. It is being intentional and selective about removing part of a plant. Pruning can be thought of as “wounding” the plant, but if done correctly it does not cause harm. Rather than “heal,” a plant “seals” (grows tissue to cover over the opening).

Many parts of plants can be pruned in different ways: branches and shoots are the primary focus; roots, buds, fruits and seed pods are also legitimate candidates for specific types and purposes.

Benefits of Pruning – Why bother? Well, pruning provides many positives for plants and people:

Increase safety and improve health – Dead, diseased and damaged branches can be dangerous if they fall. Removing those parts can also quicken healing and limit disease spread or insect infestation. Thinning trees and bushes can also make more room for light to shine on more of the plant and improve growth, flowering or fruit production. It can also allow more air circulation.

Maintain pleasing size – Left untended, plants can get out of control. Pruning helps regulate the size of a plant which can keep them from overtaking a landscape or home feature. It also makes harvesting fruit trees more manageable. You can also remove unwanted shade by pruning.

shutterstock_91978901

Enjoy more flowers and better quality fruit – Good pruning done right means your plants may flower better and your fruit quality can improve.

Achieve desired appearance – Some plants are grown for their shape and must be pruned regularly to maintain it. Once formed incorrectly it can be difficult to fix.

Produce stronger plants, earlier and easier – It’s easier to prune a young plant when its branches are small, and it is possible to train main branches to produce stronger trees.

Revitalize old foliage – If you have old bushes and trees that have gotten out of shape and have dead or dying parts, pruning can bring them back to life.

When

If you prune at the right time, you’ve accomplished half the challenge! Timing is so important in pruning: the right time means more growth, the wrong time means less growth. Pay attention to the seasons and also be aware of what each species needs, especially for fruit trees and shrubs. But don’t be intimated. Here are some simple facts:

All Year

You can do light pruning and remove dead wood any time of year. Just don’t get carried away.

Winter

shutterstock_123982726Think “before bud break” in general because for most plants, bud break or leaf extension (when plants start to emerge and grow) is the most stressful time. Pruning is stressful, too, so it needs to be done during the least stressful period for plants and that is in late winter/early spring dormancy.

For burst of spring growth – If you want a burst of new growth in the spring for your bushes and trees, this is the best time to prune, while the plant is still dormant. Wait until the coldest part of winter is over. Some tree species’ sap may flow, or “bleed,” and that’s normal.

For summer-flowering trees – If you desire your mid-to-late summer flowering trees and shrubs to flourish, prune them in winter, or early spring.

Spring

For more flowers on spring-blooming trees – If you want to enhance the flowers of spring-blooming trees, prune them when their flowers die away.

Summer

For shape – If you want to direct how branches grow, you need to slow the development of a tree or branch. Do this by pruning after the seasonal growth is finished. My Korean Dwarf Lilac is a nice round circle of green because I have faithfully done this kind of pruning each month through the growing seasons.

For correction – If you want to correct the growth of a defective branch or a low-hanging limb and how they affect the overall look of your tree or shrub, now is easier to observe those problems and a good time to prune, too.

Fall

This is the time NOT to prune, except to trim away dead or diseased parts. This is the time when wounds heal slower and there is an increased chance of disease. Pruning during waning growth season can remove important parts needed for winter.

Where

Understanding Plant Growth So You Can Manage Plant Growth

shutterstock_76032325All the new growth that bursts forth in spring is actually being driven by chemical changes in the plants stems. Have you ever noticed the way one main stem seems to always stick up right through the top of plants? The bud at the top of that stem is actually kind of like a bully. It is determined to be the first to the light, and it actually sends a hormone running down to keep the other buds further below from growing.

If you remove that top bud, then you stop the hormone from being released in the plant, and the other buds will grow. There’s of course a lot more to that and if you want to research it more, look up “apical dominance.”

This is one of the basic foundations of pruning. Trees and bushes that grow tall and not bushy have “apical dominance,” or their top bud (the “apex”) is bullying—dominating—the growth. To create bushy trees, remove the top bud (called a “terminal bud”) and the buds on the sides (called “lateral buds”) will grow out and become branches or more stems and leaves.

How

Tools to Use

Make sure you choose high quality, sharp, clean tools for your job.

shutterstock_79055110Hand tools can be used for stems less than ¾” diameter. I like bypass pruners best because they open wide and are usually quite sturdy and make clean cuts. Anvil pruners are less expensive, but then can be frustrating to use and tend to smash stems.

For thicker branches up to 2” loping shears are good to use because their long handles give more leverage.

When the branch is too thick for those scissor-like tools, a pruning saw will do the job. There are many versions of these saws, you may want to purchase a fine-tooth version for small branches and a coarse-tooth saw for thicker branches.

Types of Cuts

There are different ways to prune depending on what you want to do and what plants you’re pruning. The best types of cuts are slanted at 45 degree angles. Don’t make a flush cut or straight horizontal cut because these do more harm than good. Three common cuts include: pinching removes top aggressive, vertical growth; heading removes part of a shoot; thinning takes away the whole shoot.

shutterstock_1520831Pinching – This works for flowers and some vegetables. Simply pinch off the top bud with your fingers to encourage the plant to grow out rather than up.

Heading – This entails making a cut further down the shoot with a pruning tool. You’re still removing the terminal (top) bud, but doing it by cutting further back down the stem, close to where it joins another stem. Make the cut back to right above the leaf to stimulate growth below the cut. Heading is great for plants like boxwood that you desire to be dense, thick, low growth. Heading cuts sometimes result in clusters of shoots you may not want. You may need to thin instead.

Thinning – When you thin out branches, you remove an entire stem or branch from the plant. The purpose of thinning is to reduce the bulkiness rather than stimulate a lot of growth. You may need to use a larger tool for this type of cut.

We can’t possibly cover all there is on the subject of pruning in one post here, so I encourage you to study your plants and continue to research how to tend them. And hopefully, with these pruning basics, you feel less intimidated about the process and practice of pruning.


Winter Gardening Chores

Gardening doesn’t end when the growing season does. I have a great checklist of winter gardening chores that keep me enthusiastic and involved in my garden even in the off-season.

Make Your Move

Prune for Dead Branches, Not GrowthNow is actually the ideal time to transplant or move plants, put in new bushes and bulbs, as well as divide perennial bulbs. If you do it now rather than waiting for spring, it’s almost like getting a whole extra year of growth. Roots will have time to get established and the plant will be ready to flourish in springtime. If you want to plant something you can enjoy through winter, investigate a wonderful new evergreen like firethorn (shiny green leaves year-round with orange berries in winter) or an arborvitae. This time of year is great for finding sales. If it is too late to plant, you can overwinter them in a pot with mulch; be sure to water them, too.

Prune for Dead Branches, Not Growth

Fall and winter are not the optimal time to prune for shape or growth – spring is best for that because it is the time when plants are ready to develop. Now is the time to look over your trees and bushes to get rid of dead branches so that insects don’t settle in, and so that come spring the plant will direct energy to new sprouts, not try to repair lifeless parts.

Eliminate Remaining Weeds

Think about it – spring is the time nature releases seeds to reproduce and multiply. The last thing you want to do is leave weeds in your lawn and garden over winter so that when spring arrives, they’re ready to proliferate your yard with loads more weeds! Getting the last of them out of gardens and lawns is a top-priority task.

Manage Mulch

Mulch serves as insulation for winter, so it still needs airflow. Survey your trees, shrubs and beds to make sure you’ve got them covered. Be sure to fluff up what is there with an iron rake to prevent compaction over winter. Then assess what areas need more. Don’t mulch too early, rodents will make their winter home in your mulch if you do.

Collect Cages, Trellises and Containers

Tomato cages and garden trellises should be cleaned, repaired and stored. Rinse out empty pots and dry before storing.

Hang Up the Hose

Leaving it hooked up can result in a broken spigot if trapped water freezes and expands. Mold and mildew can also develop inside a hose. An air compressor works great to dry out a hose before storing it away for the winter.

Invite Potted Plants Indoors

Spending a couple days in the garage before going in the house helps plants adjust from outdoors to indoors. Remember to remove bugs first.

Add Winter Interest

Winter gardening chores don’t have to be all work and no play. Choose a non-organic item to add visual interest for the winter, such as adding brightly colored paint to a wooden fence, lattice or arbor. Statues, brightly colored pots or outdoor art can also spruce up your garden for wintertime.

Clean and Store Garden Tools

While cleaning and repairing may not sound fun now, motivate yourself to do this chore by imagining pulling out shiny, freshly sharpened tools next spring. Even though we use them in the dirt, garden tools will last longer with regular cleaning and maintenance.

  • Clean off dirt and materials.
  • Remove rust – Rust is one of the most damaging things for your tools. Start with sandpaper or a wire brush and scrub. If that doesn’t remove the rust, use a chemical remover from your local home store, or try soaking in white vinegar.
  • Once you’ve removed the rust, now brush or wipe mineral oil on the metal parts to keep them nice over the winter.
  • Sand and repair wooden parts, too. Repaint painted surfaces, and apply linseed oil to wooden handles.
  • To sharpen, file edges in one direction away from you.

Evaluate Successes and Failures

I like to reflect on what worked well and what I’d like to do differently for next year and start planning those changes. That helps me get prepared and excited for spring. I consider how happy I was with the color schemes around my gardens; how well things bloomed and fared  what vegetables or herbs we enjoyed and new ones we’d like to try. I research new flowers that I’d like to grow and prepare to purchase and plant them. It’s also the time when I dream and draw out new designs for garden beds, and plan my budget for purchases. It’s even a good time to till new ground for areas I want to expand next spring.

Though winter is around the corner, there are many chores that can be done to keep our gardens going throughout the year.


Plant Spring Bulbs…Now?

Yes! Fall is the time to plant bulbs if you want to see crocuses peeking through the snow or tulips dotting your garden next spring. Even though many of us are experiencing cool weather and thinking of bonfires not blooms, the little bit of effort it takes to put the bulbs in the ground now will be well worth later when those bright, colorful blossoms are the first to usher in the warmer seasons.

Why Now?

Planting bulbs in the fall helps root development. The cool, moist soil is the perfect environment for roots to get established so the plant is ready to focus energy on flowering come springtime. The bulbs go dormant through winter, and spring rains will wake them up and prompt sprouting.

When Exactly to Plant

Finding the Perfect Time – Each zone is different and weather varies from year to year, so here are some guiding principles for optimal spring bulb planting:

  • Spring bulbs need consistent temperatures below 60 degrees.
  • Roots systems need to be growing in the ground for several weeks before the ground freezes, so look at weather predictions and calculate a good planting time.
  • Don’t plant too early. If bulbs are in the ground too long, they may start to sprout and that will deplete some of the valuable stored energy needed to get through the winter. Beware of extra-long summers and wait to plant.
  • If you wait a too long and the ground starts to freeze, you can plant a little deeper than recommended for added insulation. It may take longer for the shoots to emerge but they will.
  • An approximate guideline might be Zones 1-4 plant late August, early September; Zones 4-7 plant mid-September to November or December. In areas without a freezing winter, consider purchasing pre-chilled bulbs to plant in early spring.

It’s a good idea to read the instructions on the packaging just to be safe.

What if I Miss the Perfect Time? – No problem. If the ground is frozen too solid to dig into, it is better for the bulbs to be in soil than hiding in a dark place in your house. Summer bulbs can be stored for winter, but spring bulbs need to grow because they only have enough energy to get through it once. If the ground is frozen solid, you can get creative. One option is to put the bulbs in a deep planter with potting soil and water it once a month until mid-spring. Or, plant them on top of the soil where you want them to grow by placing them on the ground and covering with 8” of potting soil for the winter. The plants may not bloom as boldly this year, but they will flourish over time.

Planting is Easy

The process of planting spring bulbs is wonderfully simple; they are about the easiest thing to grow. You can literally dig a hole, sprinkle in some fertilizer, put them in the ground and forget about them. Here are a few other things to think about if you want:

  1. Choose an area with ample sunlight in spring. Consider where you want to see the first bursts of color, too.
  2. Ensure well-drained soil. Though bulbs like water, they’ll rot if too wet. If your spot is not well-drained, add some peat moss or other organic materials to the earth.
  3. Plant in loose, well-amended soil (with a pH between 6.5 and 7.0 ideally).
  4. Dig your hole. Bulb size affects planting depth. Depth is measured from bottom of bulb to soil line. Plant bulbs to about three times their diameter. Large and small bulbs can be inter-planted on top of each other. Too deep is better than too shallow.
  5. Sprinkle fertilizer into the bottom. Bone meal or superphosphate facilitates root growth and flowering.
  6. Cover with soil, water thoroughly, and mulch.

These are a few more tips to help you have success:

  • For a natural effect, dig a large area and plant several bulbs at once. Or, toss them into the air, let them fall and dig the holes where they fall.
  • Allow the foliage to die naturally because the dying parts of the plant produce food for the next season’s flower. Don’t cut or mow.
  • Remove poor performers and replant new bulbs.
  • Use a drill and auger for easy planting in established gardens.
  • Try to plant with the pointed side up because the pointed end is the stem. It’s not a problem if you can’t tell – the stem will find its way.
  • To keep rodents from eating bulbs, put some red pepper in the hole, or place a growing “cage” atop the hole. Or, plant daffodils – rodents don’t like them.

Ideas for Selecting Bulbs

Buy Healthy Bulbs - Since bulbs can be around for a long time, you’ll want to buy the best ones you can. Healthy bulbs are weighty, firm, mold-free. Don’t worry about small nicks or loose skins. Avoid dry, withered, spongy or moldy bulbs. Large bulbs will beget more flowers. Small economy bulbs are not really a good bargain because they produce smaller, less attractive flowers.

Store Properly Until Planting – Find a cool, dry place (55-60 degrees) to store until planting. Do not store in the refrigerator to avoid confusing with onions (daffodil bulbs are actually poisonous) or near ripening fruit which produces harmful ethylene gas.

Consider Benefits of Different Flowers – Crocus, daffodils and hyacinth offer beautiful color, come back every year, and multiply and spread over time. Tulips are more delicate, may need replenishing each year and are “candy” for deer, rabbits and squirrels. Grape hyacinth, crocus and scilla are first to bloom. Daffodils and alliums (flowering onions) provide big blooms and are wildlife resistant. Crocus even bloom in the snow. Dwarf iris, early stardrift and wandflower are early blooming. Fritillaria is exotic-looking and easy to grow. Anemone resemble poppies.

Fall planting is a great exercise in delayed gratification. Don’t let the cold weather keep you from doing this little chore now so that, come spring, you’ll get to enjoy the beauty of beautiful blooms.

Tools List: Garden Weasel, Super Garden Claw, Garden Claw


Mulching For Fall and Winter

Fall Mulch Gives Your Lawn and Garden a Winter Blanket.

With the cold winter temperatures starting to close in, one of the easiest and cheapest ways to keep your lawn and garden healthy is by mulching. Applying mulch in the next few weeks will cut down on water loss in the soil, suppress weed growth and protect your plants from extreme temperatures.

You’ll want to mulch anything that needs protection from moisture loss, temperature changes or weed infestation. In the fall, that usually means rhododendrons, azaleas, roses, bulbs and annuals. You’ll also want to cover up any vegetable garden as well as the lawn itself (more on that later).

Mulch’s ability to conserve soil moisture is well known. Experts say that with mulch, you can reduce moisture evaporation by up to 50 percent! This saves you valuable water after the rugged drought season we just experienced – and with water restrictions being enforced in many communities across the country.

Mulch helps prevent the escape of rain, dew and water drawn from the subsoil. Without mulch, most dew is completely wasted as far as plant growth is concerned. It’s important you keep the dew and moisture contained and the ground soil healthy.

As for weed control, you can cut weeding time by nearly 66% with mulch! First, make sure the mulch you are using is weed-free. All your good intentions can go for naught with one application of weed-infested mulch. That results in more weeds being introduced to your plantings than the mulch can control.

Make your mulch deep enough to prevent weed germination. Weeds thrive on light, but they wither when covered properly. If you apply your mulch too thin, weeds can crop up – so cover all the open areas you can find. And remember, no mulch can stop all weeds. But with the proper mulch application, it’s easy to pluck the few weeds that get through.

In cold weather, your mulch will help slow down the freezing and thawing of your soil, which can cause soil heaving and root damage. To put it simply: Mulch is like an insulating blanket that keeps your plant roots cooler on warm days and warmer on cool days.

A super-cheap source of mulch.

You know those leaves in the trees that rain down on you throughout the fall? Here’s a tip you’re going to love. Forget raking. Forget bagging. Let those beautiful leaves fall down all over your yard and turn them into wonderful, nutrient-rich mulch. Best of all, you’ll love the price. Free!

According to recent studies, mulched-up leaves are great for your lawn. Just mulch all your leaves with your lawnmower and feed your yard and gardens the results. You’ll save work, time and your aching back – while improving your soil and adding valuable nutrients.

Here’s how to do it. Take the grass catcher off your mower and mow over all the leaves on your lawn. Any kind of rotary mower will work on any kind of leaves – up to 18 inches deep (though that will take you a few passes to chop up). You will want to mow the leaves into small, dime-sized pieces. You’re done when about half an inch of grass can be seen through the mulched leaf layer.

Once the leaf bits settle in, microbes and worms will get down to business and recycle them naturally. If you want to give your mulch a boost by helping the microbes, nitrogen is the answer. Go to your lawn & garden center for some retail options to help break down your mulched leaves faster.

Mulch today, and in the spring you’ll notice a big difference. The leaf litter you mulched up in the fall will be long gone – and your lawn and gardens will look healthier than ever.

Hopefully, you won’t mind your rakes and leaf bags getting a little dusty.

 


Planting for a Fall Harvest

When the temperatures cool down, your garden can still thrive.

Just because it’s nearly the end of summer doesn’t mean your gardens can’t still bloom into the fall. In fact, many plants actually thrive in colder weather. You can take advantage of more rain than summer, fewer insects and no worries about plants bolting to seed. Not to mention the fact that it’s more enjoyable to work in the garden without the oppressive heat of August.

As your summer vegetables begin to run their course, it’s time to prepare the ground for the next growing season. If there are holes left from pulling or harvesting plants, clear out as much as you can. Get rid of all the weeds and spent plants – rip out everything. You can leave peppers or tomatoes, but vegetables like beans and cucumbers are likely done for the year. Also, if any small produce (or fruit) has fallen off the plants, get rid of that too. Off to the compost pile with all of it!

Now break up that soil. Put your trusty Garden Weasel to work and loosen the ground, as it has likely gotten compacted over the summer. There’s no need for big-time tilling, just enough to give the roots space and allow those fall rains to get down deep.

Move that mulch. If your mulch is in decent shape, you can re-use it in cooler weather. Just freshen it with some new mulch. For vegetables, you can mulch up some fallen leaves or use straw, which is easy to use. Don’t lay unshredded leaves atop your beds, however, as they allow for water to easily penetrate.

Add some compost. Work in some slow-acting organic fertilizer as you loosen the soil. Have your planting layout done before you add the compost, so you add it where the plants grow – not on the paths. Remember, if you use manure, let it compost at least six months, as fresh manure compost can burn plant roots and pose a health risk. Rake the soil to create furrows that will catch and retain moisture

Be ready for winter. If you will be using frost protection, such as a cold frame or hoop cover, get the structures in place so they are where you need them and won’t hurt the plants and their growing roots.

Here are the ideal vegetables and flowers you can still get in the ground now. Chives, radishes, onions, broccoli, leaf lettuces and spinach are among crops with 30-day maturities and can be planted through mid-September in most regions. And as you know, lawn seed thrives in cold weather, so plant in the fall for thick, green grass in the spring.

For fall flowers, most people think of planting bulbs for spring. But in late August or early September, you can get good, cut-rate deals on flowers as well. Here are some of your best bets from now until the first frost of the year: chrysanthemums, pansies, asters and irises. Crocus and tulip bulbs are great to plant once the ground is about 50 degrees or so. (Plant with the bulbs pointing up!)

Here are a few more tips for fall gardening. First off, don’t be scared to plant a few vegetables a little later than recommended. The reward can be worth the minor risk. And to keep out pests and hold in heat, try cheesecloth over your leafy crops. Whatever you do, keep records on what crops you plant and when, then track what succeeds or fails. This will help you do better in the future.

And before you do anything, talk to the experts in your local gardening center. They know what works best in your region of the country and with your local soil types.

So garden warriors, just because colder temperatures are just around the corner is no reason to throw in the trowel. Keep the blooms coming from now until the ground is covered in snow!


Extend Your “Blooming Season”

The end of summer doesn’tfall blooming flowers have to mean the end of beautiful blooms. These four tips can help you extend enjoyment of your home’s horticultural highlights.

1. “Take Your Vitamins”

My favorite local nursery gardening guru swears by a regular dose of “vitamins” to keep annuals blooming longer. He says fertilizing annuals every seven days ensures they will bloom until the first freeze.

Fertilizer is often called “plant food,” but that is really a misnomer. The food our plants consume is sunlight and water which they make energy with through photosynthesis. Fertilizer is more like a multi-vitamin that provides added nutrients — nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as a variety of micronutrients. Nitrogen promotes green growth; phosphorus aids in flowering and fruiting; potassium contributes to overall vitality and health.

Since phosphorus is key to those desired colorful blooms, you want to select a fertilizer with a higher amount of it. Fertilizers vary in the amount of each nutrient contained. The NPK number is used on all fertilizer packaging to indicate the percentage of each nutrient in Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium order. The fertilizer my guru recommends is Bloom Boost which has an NPK ratio of 10-30-20; the middle number indicates this brand contains a lot of phosphorus. Whatever type of fertilizer you choose, be careful and read the instructions. Where fertilizer is concerned, too much of a good thing is not a good thing and can harm your plant.

2. Remove Withered Blooms

deadhead deadheading withered bloomsThis process is called “deadheading” and it also helps annuals continue to flourish because it interrupts the seed reproduction process. If the flower is removed before the seed drops from the plant, it will produce another flower. Deadheading is also recommended to do weekly. Simply pull down gently on the spent flower until it pops off. Some annuals will actually die if the dead blooms are not removed. Perennials benefit from deadheading, too.

3. Examine Your Roots

By the end of summer, it is possible your potted plants may have outgrown their containers and may not be blooming or flourishing because their roots are too cramped in the soil. This is called “root bound.” Roots grow an incredible amount. If you leave a plant in its container for too long, it can actually suffocate itself.

Signs of being root bound are foliage decay, roots peeking out from drainage holes, poor water retention and, in severe cases, impermeable top soil.

To investigate the roots, water the plant and run a knife between the soil and pot to loosen. Tip it upside down and grasp the plant at the base, gently wiggling it free. If the roots are thick, discolored, entangled or molded to the shape of the container, you will want to remove the unhealthy roots and can safely take away 1/3 of them without harming the plant. Bright white roots are healthy, keep those. Loosen all the roots, and then replant in a larger pot. It may take a little time for the plant to reestablish because it will focus on root growth first.

4. Plan Your Perennials

Perennials grow back every year so planting them is a bigger decision and requires more research about what grows well in what conditions. But if you plan your perennials well, you can have a beautiful blooming garden from spring until fall.

Many perennials have short bloom periods (3 weeks); some bloom for 12 weeks with regular deadheading (viola, coreopsis, Stella de Oro daylilies are some examples). Combine them with annuals to fill in with color when perennials aren’t blooming. Research what perennial plants’ bloom times are for your area and have fun making a list and calendar then creating a design that will be pleasing to the eyes and compliment your landscape.

When perennials stop blooming, trim back the stem to encourage blooms next season.

Don’t mourn the end of summer yet! Try these simple ways to extend bloom time and keep your garden beautiful for longer.


Colorful Summer Perennials

Even Though the Heat is On, You Can Still Have Colorful Summer Gardens

The temperatures may be soaring outside, but you can still have a bounty of beautiful perennials that will continue to bloom this summer – and for years to come. These plants can take the heat, and are hearty and resistant, even in lower moisture levels.

Here are some great perennials that will keep your garden looking great even during the dog days of summer.

Asters

Perfect for late summer and fall, the star-like flower of the aster bursts in late summer and fall. The flowers can reach five feet, with colors like rich blues, pinks, purples and reds. They are excellent for beds and borders, and you can cut them and bring indoors.

Beard-Tongue

Beard-Tongue features striking spikes of tubular blue, lavender, pink and red flowers. The variety ‘Red Husker’ has red flowers and purple leaves for a gorgeous contrast when combined with light green plants. Give this three-foot plant plenty of sunlight after planting in the middle or back of the bed.

Black-Eyed Susan

This American icon blooms from midsummer until nearly winter, with orange or golden yellow blooms proliferating again and again. Black-Eyed Susans are sun- and drought-tolerant and can reach two feet, making it perfect for the middle or back of the bed.

Blanket Flower

Blanket Flowers are heat- and drought-tolerant perennials that offer lots of color in a sunny border area of your bed. Red, gold or brown blooms are about three inches wide and thrive into the fall. They are easy to grow from seed, and they flower the first year.

Siberian Iris

Siberian Iris adds color and vertical accents to flowerbeds throughout the summer. Once established, they handle dry soil well. Blooms of white, blue, yellow and violet rise up from two-foot-tall grassy foliage. While brightening the garden, they are also great to cut and display in a vase.

Purple Coneflower

A wildflower from the prairie that dazzles by throwing out its petal out horizontally, much like a daisy. The Coneflower tolerates heat and drought, and it will bloom all summer long. Plant this 30-inch-tall beauty in the middle or back of the bed.

Pincushion

One of the longest-lasting perennial bloomers, Pincushions are dainty flowers that flourish all summer and into the fall. The flowers do best in sun or partial shade, and do their best blooming when placed in the front of the bed.

Tall Garden Phlox

Garden, tall or border phlox grow up to four feet tall with fragrant flowers blossoming through late summer and early fall. This long-time favorite is renowned for its eye-catching color and sweet fragrance. Plant these in the back of the garden bed.

Russian Sage

Perennial SageIf you have a large garden, make room for this stunning perennial. At three feet wide and five feet tall, you’ll love seeing the sage’s clouds of blue flowers in late summer. Give these beauties room and plant them in the sun, and don’t worry about drought or heat.

Perennial Sage

This hybrid perennial is an eye-catching combination of 18-inch blue, white or purple flowers and attractive gray-green foliage. Plant sage in the front or middle of the border in a sunny spot. Some varieties also do well into the cool temperatures of the fall.

Japanese Silver Grass

These showy ornamental grasses are perfect as accent plants, hedges, or screens. These warm-season perennials bloom in mid- to late-summer and fall. You’ll love the attractive feather plumes of silver, tan and red as they become fluffy and white in winter. In winter, the leaves take on a reddish or bronzy color.

Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’

A popular perennial with fleshy leaves and bright flowers. This fool-proof bloomer offers spectacular colors when most others are fading. The 18-inch upright produces rosy, flat-topped flowers that persist into late fall, fading to a red brick color in cold temperatures.

Speedwell

This perennial’s seven-inch spikes bloom atop plants that grow up to two feet tall in shades of blue or red from early summer through fall. If you live in the North, give this bloomer sun, but in the South it prefers a bit of shade. Plant it at the front of the bed.

Threadleaf Tickseed

Tickseed comes in a wide range of sizes and colors. Varieties like ‘Moonbeam’ and ‘Limerock Ruby’ produce blankets of small daisy-like flowers into fall in pink, yellow or red. This show-stopper deserves a starring role in the center of any perennial bed.

There’s still time to get these plants down and beautify your garden for the rest of the summer and into fall. If not, remember these breeds next year when you’re making your garden plans. Good luck!


Planting for Shady Spaces

Shady spaces can be challenging and discouraging, especially if you can’t get the vision of bright colorful annuals out of your mind. But there are actually some surprising benefits to shady places and lots of hope for creating beautiful gardens there. All it takes is an open mind and a little information.

Advantages of Shady Spaces

Sunlight can create a lot of stress on plants – scorching, wilting, fading and inhibiting growth. Sunny gardens can require a lot of watering maintenance because of these factors.

Shade, on the other hand, often offers locations with rich, cool, loose soil because of the trees and bushes that create it. This is a great environment for plants to grow in.

Weeds don’t like shady spots so you generally find fewer weeds in shady gardens.

Many shade-loving plants are not attractive to pests such as deer and rabbits.

Shade gardens with sitting areas offer respite from summer sun for reading and relaxing.

Types of Shade

It is helpful to know what kind of shade you are dealing with before you purchase plants. The light requirements for full shade plants are different than partial shade plants. Make an assessment by observing your shady areas throughout the course of a sunny day, and take notes.

Light shade – open but protected from direct sunlight
Partial shade – two to six hours of morning or afternoon sunlight
Moderate shade – diffused light through trees or reflected light from buildings
Deep shade – receives no direct sunlight and has limited reflected light, usually under thick growth of trees

You can also evaluate if you are dealing with moist shade or dry shade. Each offers a different soil environment. Most shade-loving plants enjoy moist conditions. Dry shade is found under large trees that consume lots of water. There are some plants to choose fromthat thrive in dry shade. Be sure to take this into consideration when selecting your foliage. Once you know the types of shade you are dealing with, the key is to match your plants to the site.

Creative Tips

Brighten up dark spaces. Yellow, chartreuse and white leaves reflect light. They also stand out among darker greens and browns, adding interest.

Think beyond flowers for color. Open your eyes to see all the beautiful leaf variations of green and yellow, blue and purple. Drive around and observe other shade gardens for inspiration.

Create contrast. Look for different plants that complement each other. Huge chartreuse hostas look fabulous planted with large violet impatiens.

Group creatively. Plant a large group of large dark green plants with one pop of flowering color in the middle. Even a huge cluster of white flowers is stunning in the middle of wonderful greens. Or create a theme in your shade garden. I’ve seen a creative hosta “kitchen garden” planted not with vegetables but only with hostas of kitchen-related names such Java, Cookie Crumbs, Guacamole and Fried Green Tomatoes.

Consider texture in your shade garden and mix it up. Look at leaf shape and variety. An interesting example would be the spikey green leaves of ornamental grass popping out of bright yellow-green circular leaves of Creeping Yellow Jeannie.

Choose varying heights. Many shade plants are short so include taller varieties as well.

Work with nature. Plant early spring flowering bulbs under trees that bud later for that desired pop of color before the shade sets in. If you do crave some vibrant color, many annuals do enjoy a little afternoon shade. (Impatiens, Caladium, Edging Lobelia)

Shade-loving Plants

Flowering

The good news is there are many flowering plants for shady spots. Plants use light to make food through photosynthesis, and with the right selection of flowering plant and shade spot, there can be enough light in shade for the plant to have energy to flower. If there is not enough light, you can thin trees or shrubs, but flowering foliage won’t grow in dense shade.

Some of the flowering options include: Astilbe, Coral Bells, Hellebor (Christmas Rose), Yellow Corydalis, Dead Nettle, Bigroot Geranium, Bergenia, Begonia, Impatiens, Polyanthus, Hosta, Foxglove, Epimedium, Old Fashioned Bleeding Heart, Gardenia, Honeysuckle and Lungwort.

Many herbs grow well in the shade as well, such as basil, chives and dill. Rhododendron and Hydrangea offer the bright colors like annuals, but prefer partial shade. They have important soil considerations you need to research, but are great part-shade options.

Foliage

Plants that love shade often have wonderful large leaves because they gather light through them, and they often are chlorophyll rich (which means lots of green). Non-flowering varieties can be found in the form of ground cover, plants, shrubs and trees, including Wild Ginger, Ajuga, Ivy, Bamboo, Boxwood, Japanese Laurel, Japanese Maple, Winterberry, Ferns (there is a huge selection of this shade plant to choose from that adds great texture to your garden). Moss plants such as Sheet Moss and Cushion Moss are ideal for shade as they grow without roots and can survive in most all poor soil conditions.

Now you’ve got some inspiration and information to go transform your shady spaces into beautiful places!


Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 18,613 other followers

%d bloggers like this: